Remote Oil filter...to have or not to have

[nowillj]

My first post and I drive a GC stage 2 1608cc powered Lada and also a bog standard Lada but with a 2.o efi Fiat twin cam. The GC engine is a joy and I am now totally converted to using it every day. To get to the point.... the GC engine was fitted by a local bloke who fitted a standard oil filter. Is this a bad idea...should I fit the GC remote item?...how does it work?...what do I need to buy over and above the assembly supplied with the GC engine?

Sorry for a dull post like this. The GC Lada runs a Lada gearbox so I will tell you how long before it self destructs,while my other car has a Fiat item,and interestingly the ratios are pretty close,although the Lada unit is definitely the weaker unit.
Julian
Exeter,Devon

[Guy Croft]

Julian, hi

a remote filter is necessary if the oil system runs an external (non-sandwich plate) thermostat - or - a dry sump system. They are also used when the sump is modified to 'big wing' designs that won't permit the filter in the stock location. They are also recommended when using an accumulator.

Some people like them because they can make the filter easier to get to as well. The remote filter should be mounted as low and close to the engine as practically possible. It's worth remembering that there is always a pressure-drop associated with hose lines and I always pack up the relief valve spring 2mm on TC units when running external circuits. The take-off from the engine can be via a take off plate (I sell one for the TC) which just has out and in unions (from pump to filter and back to the main feed gallery) or a Mocal type sandwich block and blank plate that screws onto the OE filter housing.

You must use a filter with an anti-syphon valve (rubber flap valve just below the array of holes that take the oil into the filter). Without this the oil will can drain down into the sump when you switch off the engine. That can cause bearing failure after a while..

Think Automotive in Isleworth are the people I stock from, and mainly I use - (dash) 8 hose (1/2BSP - British Standard Pipe) Aeroquip 'furry' hose (nickname) - textile braided, along with 'fir-tree' (push-on) swivels as shown in the photo. I would never lay out a circuit using the Goodridge/Aeroquip anodised aluminum fittings and stainless-braided teflon hose, very costly and time-consuming to do. Though of course if lines go thru the interior of the vehicle the race regs may call for just that.
The pics below will hopefully tell you more about these layouts.

Hope that's clear. Now, about your photos..

GC

[Guy Croft]

Some pictures taken at GCRE last week of Steve Parsons' Morris Minor 16v Fiat installation, very nicely excuted, equipped with some of the ancillaries under discussion here.

The catchtank incidentally (for the eagle-eyed reader) does have a pipe inside that vents near the top of the catchtank. In case you were wondering why the feed hose from the engine breather feeds in at the base...

GC

[emil]

Hello Guy and others,
As always, this forum provides answers to most questions that come up. Thanks!!

I have a couple of questions re. external oil filters though:
I have spoken to several race engine builders locally and they have all recommended to place the oil filter first in the flow from the engine. This did not seem like the best placement to me as the primary function of the filter is to prevent contaminants from entering the engine, and placing the filter as close to the engine inlet would seem better IMHO. They, on the other hand, argued that if the filter wasn't placed first, in time there would be a build up of contaminants in the cooler, t-stat etc. Any thoughts on this?

On the previously posted sketches of oil circuits I noted that you placed the in-line temp sender after the oil cooler. Wouldn't it be better to place it before the t-stat instead, thus providing a reading of the oil temperature in the sump (more or less), rather than of the oil entering the engine? Or is the in-line t-stat to be considered a complement to a sender placed directly in the sump?

Finally, could you please recommend a good make/model of oil filter suitable for the TC? I have been using Mahle which is considered high quality (around here anyway) but I would appreciate input from others on the forum.

Best regards,
Emil Aberg
Uppsala, Sweden
P.S. GC - Thanks for the extremely quick delivery of parts and DVD. Super interesting stuff! D.S.

[Guy Croft]

Hi Emil

often comes up this one. My view is the filter should be last_in_line ie: placed just before the oil enters the engine.

As for measuring oil temp I want to know the temp going in to the engine. I'm not overly interested how hot it is coming out. Excessive entry temperature can cause a serious drop in oil pressure (due to high bleed rate from bearings).

As for filter I have used most commercial types incl Motaquip, Fiat, Mahle, and don't have an issue with any of them. I currently stock Purolator. Their L27820 is a good choice, 3/4 UNF centre thread, anti-syphon valve. Much depends on availability to be honest - the motor factors I use frequently change supplier on cost grounds.

My way is tried and tested exhaustively which is why I have the confidence to write on this site, but there are always folk out there who disagree with me, often just on principle. They don't tend to operate forums though..

GC

[emil]

Hello Guy,
As always a very quick answer. Much appreciated.

I agree entirely re. people who enjoy disagreeing -just because. And more often than not they are not interested in discussing why, or listening to other opinions.

I obviously forgot entirely about which path the engine oil takes. For some reason I was thinking that the sump oil temp would be the same as the oil going to the bearings. Of course you are entirely right saying that incoming oil temp is what matters. Sorry.
I'll be placing the filter last in line..

Regards,
Emil