Race Engine Forum UK

I have been bolting odd bits and peaces to the engine. I know it all seem a slow motion process but belive me it takes a loong time for me because I have to hand pick each and every bolt from a big box of bolts that are all mixed up and even the smallest component has been dismantled as far as possible. Even the distributor has been taken to bits, sandblasted, eloxated, new bearing, seal, oring... all in all probably a days work for a small component.

Samo, most of the people on here know how much time goes into reworking one componant because we do it too and can appreciate it, thats why we read projects like this - I know thats why I do.

Good job, I especially like the zinc gold bits very professional looking.

Haven't had much time to keep things up to date.

Since my last report I had a bit of an issue with one of the bolts for the intake manifold which striped the thread from the head. And naturally it was the bolt hole nuber 2 which is not a blind hole but goes straight trough the head to the oil return channel. So the belts and the intake cambox had to come off for me to be able to block the channel and avoid getting metal particles into it when I fix it. If I haden't used a Spesso gasket that costs a it would have been easier to take the head off I guess...

So after this annoying setback fixed the engine is now almost finished just a few bolt on pices are missing like sensors, sparkplugs etc...

I am now waiting for my mechanic to clear up a car lift for me so I can finish the build and install the engine. While waiting I am trying to take care of some of the less glamorous jobs like re-newing the shock absorbers, painting the springs...


BTW does anyone know the clolour code of the blue colour Lancia used on their shock absorbers originally?

Keeping busy even in the worst heat wave we have at the moment.

Samo,

Just read through the entire topic - fantastic work. I really enjoyed the time of building rather than stripping. Your quality of work is excellent and I look forward to the next update.

Darren

An update after a loooooong time. Don't worry I have been hard at work.

Working hard lately. Finished installing the:
-side glass, runners, locks etc.
-side indicators
-few bits of trim
-front & rear driveshafts
-front anti-roll bar
-rear boot, rear wiper motor, licence plate assembly
-left front light
-vacuum hoses for the air circulation control that I forgot to install
-finished installing the engine (it was leaning about 1cm because I installed the gearbox mounting 180° wrong way)
-rear right shockabsorber (thanks to Guy aka. infectus-guy for the donated plastic spring spacer)
-leak tested the intercooler, straightened the cooling fins, cleaned and painted....

Your photos get darker and darker Samo.

Retake maybe?

G

I am sorry about the poor picture quality.

More or less when I am done working I am just too tired to focus on the pictures and I just snap a few pics with my phone... Will try to take the camera with me next time.

First signs of life.

At this time still fixing the electrical installation. The engine has still not been turned over because i am still missing some bits&pices.

Hi Samo, mine was cracked too when I removed it, I talked to the welder where I work (Air New Zealand Engineering) he really knows his stuff, and apparently cast iron doesn't really like being welded, it will crack during welding and will be more likely to crack again after welding. So I found a new one from a good seller on e bay Germany, if you search for Delta integrale you're bound to find one on there. Hope this helps.

Or you could just live with it, but with the quality of the rest of your work, I wouldn't think you'd be happy with that.

There are methods to weld cast iron. Most welders would put the work piece in an oven, heat it until glowing red, do their welding and put it back in the oven. After that, they slowly cool the oven down to room temperature. That way heat and casting stresses will be relieved during welding and cooling off afterwards. Whether this is cheaper than buying a manifold second hand, I don't know. Buying one from someone you don't know that doesn't have a good reputation, is always a risk. Someone can be selling one with the best intentions, but that's just as cracked as the one you're replacing.

This manifold has been preheated, welded and cooled in an owen etc. But I don't know if the crack was there before or not.

I know of the company Fingers was talking about. My hat is off to them only the best stuff. And the are selling NEW OE manifolds so they should be crack free.

Keeping busy...

In the past days I have finished the rear end drive gear. Installed the rear strut bar and the rear diff subframe reinforcement and stabilisation bar which are suppose to make the handeling more predictable.

Also I have dismanteled the propshaft, had it sandblasted and electro cataforically painted (not sure of the right term). I have inspected the bearings... will be putting it back together as soon as I get the proper M16 nuts.

I'm loving this thread. It would be a dream to do something like this, especially on something like an integrale.

What on earth happened to the rear caliper? Is that a large chunk missing from the top where the flexi pipe screws into?