Race Engine Forum UK

In this case where good quality steels are available and this part is so vital, I would definately use 270, because you don't want your bolts become loose at any situation.
Loctite 270 locks them permanently.

If you ever need to open them, it's still possible without stripping any threads because they are steel.

ok thanks urbancamo.

So they can be broken using a good breaker bar I guess. It says the breaking limit is 33Nm which is less than the torque setting for the bolts.

Regards

271 could be another possibility.
Slightly lower breakaway torque.

Loctite 271 High strength, low viscosity Threadlocker, Breakaway torque 26Nm

Decided against the locktite as the manual does not suggest it.

Torqued them to 4.5 kg-m as per factory specs and all ok.

Well I drove my first 120kms yesterday and all ran smoothly except one little incident at the end of the journey.
I noticed oil pressure dropped a little (still within specs though), when I stopped to inspect oil was pouring out of the left hand cam seal area!!!!

I removed the belt and pulley, loosened the back plate and the cam seal dropped on the floor.
Must have worked loose and popped out.

Fitted a new one last night. Thinking about some kind of shim between the back plate and seal to keep pressure on the outer rim to stop this occurring again.
This has happened to a few people I know with the modern rubber covered rim seals.

I've pressed in about 4 before and this is the first time it's happened to me.

Apart from that everything ran smoothly. Plugs were a nice brown colour and no unusual noises.
No water leaks or oil leaks from any other gaskets or pipes.

The twin fan set up works a treat. Cools down the engine 3 times faster than the old set up. Very happy with that.

Regards

hi Chris,

Hurrah! So you're up and running again, all in order and no funny clicking sounds from tappets or small ends. Good for you, congrats!

regards
Tom

Up and running yes.

Got to change the timing belts this week due to the oil spillage when the seal popped out (oil all over the belts).
I see some racing companies sell retaining washers for these particular seals due to an issue of them falling out while driving around fast tight corners.
I am making some simple ones of my own to prevent them from popping out again and spraying oil all over the engine bay.

Carbs need tuning also. Plugs were a nice brown colour but the carbs need balancing.
All in due time.

No leaks from the crank seals or front/back plates which is a relief.

One issue that is concerning me and causing sleepless nights recently.

In 3rd and 5th gear I hear a hissing sound. If I change into 4th no sound even at the same speed.

I will check the oil level this week. If it's too high could this be churning up the oil and causing this 'shhhhh' like sound. I don't know.

I also added an anti-friction additive to the box. Maybe it is reacting with the oil with undesirable consequences.

Regards

Chris

Third and fifth both have the lever in forward position. You may simply have something like a split booth and you hear the outside world. Putting it in fourth or second may close the split.

(Not that I can hear what you're hearing, being halfway around the globe...)

Does it go away when you coast with the lever in fifth gear and the clutch depressed? Do you notice a difference when you shift from fifth to fourth while coasting?

regards
Tom

You may simply have something like a split booth and you hear the outside world. Putting it in fourth or second may close the split.

What do you mean by booth? Gaiter or boot?
The gearstick had a lower rubber gaitor and and upper one around the gearstick and lower dash.
Currently the upper one is removed as it needs replacing.
Maybe noise that was present before but I never heard because the upper gaiter was there

Does it go away when you coast with the lever in fifth gear and the clutch depressed? Do you notice a difference when you shift from fifth to fourth while coasting?

To tell the truth I can't remember now. I drove 120kms on the highway with my wife and baby, albeit a bit stressed due to the noise, and do not remember. I will have to test it again. Fourth was quiet for sure in all conditions like switching off the volume.
Then into 3rd again the return of the 'shhhhh' noise.

First thing came to mind was bearings!! Or maybe overfill and it was a foaming kind of noise.

Thanks Tom.

(I hate autocorrect that messes up my posts...)

I meant boot. Gaiter as well probably. The rubber thingy that sits around the bottom of your gear lever and keeps the noise and dust out.
Sudden bearing failure would surprise me, as you did not take the gearbox apart, did you? Overfilling should not make a worrying noise like that.

So, related to the position of the lever, I'd look for something that moves with that. Like a boot.
See if you can isolate the noise from the engine and gearbox by coasting as I indicated. It may just be road noise.

regards
Tom

In fact I did change 2 small bushings on the gear lever linkages to reduce significant play present.
Maybe another factor.

But I will probably get rid of the additive and oil and put some good synthetic oil in. Probably Motul 80w/90 if I can get hold of that..

Thanks

Might just go for a good oil change, probably Motul Gearbox 80w/90.

I have a box of nice new gold oil ready and waiting to be put in my Alfa engine and box this weekend.

Gearbox: Motul 'GearBox' 80w/90 Mineral reinforced formula with M0S2 (GL4/GL5 compliant and does not affect yellow materials)

Engine: Motul 300v 20w/60 (had the choice of Castrol Edge 10w/60, or Liqui Moly 10W/60)

Went for the 20w as the car is inside and never has 'cold' starts, I would say it never falls below 10/12 degrees in the deepest of winter. Also breaks down slower due to the closer grades as opposed to 10w/60.


Chris

Good results guys.

My engine appears to like the 20w/60 so far.

Driving at speed the engine temperature was about 5 degrees less.

Also I had to reduce the idle rpm by about 250-300 rpm. (should reduce petrol consumption). Obviously the engine was working less hard despite the higher viscosity which is a bit puzzling. Synthetic=less friction?

Pressure at 3000 rpm was just about 50 psi even when pushing it really hard.

Idle hot not much difference, only a few psi more. Maybe the gauge is not so accurate at low pressure, who knows. The brand is supposed to be a fairly good one.

Glad it's all working out for you. No more small end knocks etc...
Any news on the mysterious gearbox 'woosh woosh' in 3rd and 5th gear?

regards
Tom