Ford Capri Mk3 Track/Race Car Project

[TomLouwrier]

Nope, though sponsored by Ford the AJ-V8 was developed in house by Jaguar themselves. Ford did use it in some of its models (Lincoln, Thunderbird). Wikipedia has a load of info on it.
There are no connections with the Ford Duratec (petrol) of Duratorq (diesel) families of engines (afaik).
Landrover used it as well (from 2005 on) so there must be manuals and rear axles pretty readily available that could be made to fit. Really no idea about ratios and such, but given the wheel size of a Landy I guess you will be able to have that silly acceleration when mated to your 13" rims...

BTW, it seems the AJ-V8 is about 200 kgs, while the Capri V6 would be around 150-170 kgs depending on who you believe. That is not too much of a difference.

regards
Tom

[Will01]

Talked to some people who have done the conversion in a few different ways and the S-Type gearbox can be used from a 2.7 Twin Turbo Diesel, although it needs slight fettling and the flywheel needs quite a bit of machining(custom job), however none of the Jag ecu or ecm can be used. It definitely needs standalone ecu. Would have to look at ratios anyway to see what we would need up back.
However ignoring all of that it appears that from the measurements I found for the engine it will not fit at the front without serious mods to suspension pickups and inner wings.
Capri engine bay is 34 inch wide strut top to strut top and the 40 inch wide engine would encroach on the top mounts. I will confirm once the Jag is home, but it looks like I will be stripping the complete car. Maybe my Dad wants to use the V8 in his x300 since we cannot get that to work? Will update after final measurements are made.

[Rallyroller]

Hi Willo

I like your idea regarding the Jag engine, but physical size may be a problem. I had a 4.2 S type- cracking car. I think the use of a "modern" engine in an older car is sound. You only have to look at modern design, tooling and machining tolerences and you see how good modern engines are. In most cases you can fit and forget.

Re V8- Volvo fitted a V8 to the S80- not sure if was Jag or Ford- or something else. ( 4.2 litre 4 wheel drive- underated car). I know a lot of people fit the Lexus V8 as it is plentiful and easy to fit- but you have a Jag engine, so not relevant.

I seem to remember reading on here re -European or USA- and the different sound they make and why. Either is better than a V6- but only my view.

[Will01]

So got the Jaguar tonight and boy is it a nice car. Ok I know it is tatty but after a wash it doesn't look that bad. I going to get the car on the ramps and check it out as I may just fix it up and enjoy for a while, at least why I still working on the Capri. I will still fit Pinto to get her running on the road, but I like the idea of returning to Jaguar V8 power.
Made some very quick measurements and the engine is 27 inches wide cylinder head to head. Don't know where the 40 came from, but people way off. Unless of course they have dyslexic tape measures?
Engine also 28 inches front to back, this may mean radiator needs moving forward. Anyway will do more checks when I get more time to measure up.
The sound of the engine is just superb, I have posted a video on youtube. Even with all the weight it is a bloomin quick car.
I really want to do alot more checks as I don't want to put the weight too far forward, may upset handling quite a bit. Still alot to do to see how to handle the power and ratios etc.

[Will01]

Quick video link to listen to the sweet sounding engine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VWMNh_Qe-8

[Will01]

So i was under the XJ8 on the weekend just to check out whether i was going to try and save her instead of transplanting the engine into the Capri. Unfortunately for the Jaguar, it has too much rust for me to easily fix up and drive. It has almost as much rust as my Capri and it took me long enough to get that all sorted!
Therefore i do think that is it now and the engine will be used in the Capri. I was quite shocked that the engine is soo low in the Jaguar, however the gearbox will tell how low or high we will mount the engine as it needs to be a good straight-ish run for the prop. I am sure the transmission tunnel will need alot of re-shaping, but that should be ok. For the time being then at least, i will not be fixing the seating position with reinforcement. Because the gearbox is quite long i may have to move the drivers seat back to make the gearstick come up in the right place. I don't really want to use extensions or remote kit to place the gearchange etc.
I think i am going to have to try and make up a blank box shape which is a rough shape of the engine, therefore i will be able to plan location of different parts in the engine bay, without having to move the enigne in & out of the shell too much.

[Will01]

Going back a little bit i have now finalised eventually an order for Compression Strut Kit (Escort Mk1+2), PolyRace Steering Rack bushes, PolyRace Single Leaf Bushes front and rear & PolyRace Leaf spring shackle to chassis bush. These were purchased from RallyDesign, as they are very easy to deal with.
I will post pictures once parts are received.
I have been putting the order off for quite a while, but i eventually decided to bite the bullet and get the parts so i can start trying to get the Capri back on its wheels.
I did originally say i would do this as stage 2 in my build, but whilst the shell is on the roll over jig, it gives me the perfect opportunity to get the best access to play around with positions etc. Photos of this will follow aswell.

The PolyRace bushes i have been told are very hard bushes, which is what i have always wanted as the car is intended for Track/Race use. I may at a later date go for solid bushings for the leaf springs, but a little bit of compliance would be appreciated when i do drive her on the road.

Before i mount the bushes, i will be cleaning back the suspension parts and re-painting. Once this is done i can then mock up the rear axle and suspension to get measurements for rear dampers. I will also take measurements and take note of available space for Watts linkage, this will have to wait to Stage 2 as i cannot justify the extra expense and the time involved to get this up and running at the moment.
I also need to take measurements so i can mock up my new rear antiroll bar location and fixings.

Question, some of you may know or not?
On the Altas axle the point where the dampers bolts to the axle is different on each side. I cannot remember the right way round, but on one side the damper bolts to a clamp in front of the axle & on the other side the damper bolts to a clamp on the back of the axle.
My guess is this is to try and stop some tramping or rotation of the axle, but i not 100% sure. Should i modify the pickup points for the dampers to be both on the rear. If i was going to 4 link, i would do this, but not to sure if i am keeping the leafs??

The other reason why i need to get a move on this, is because i need to see if the rear discs and split rims for the rear will actually fit into the standard arches. I know it will be tight, but i am hoping i will be ok, otherwise i may have to make custom caliper mounts and bolt the disc on behind the axle flange. This may involve machining a step onto the inner part of the axle flange to allow the disc to locate centrally.

[Will01]

As promised here are a few pictures of the parts purchased for the Capri. In all fairness they were not too expensive.
I really need to push forward with getting the Capri on its wheels so it was almost a forced purchase.
- PolyRace steering rack bushes to suit Mk1,2 Escorts and Capri's with Manual steering racks.
The next upgrade from this would be to go for solid aluminimum rack mounts, but we will see how the polybushed versions are first.
- PolyRace leaf spring shackle to chassis rail bushes, these will help prevent twisting of the leaf spring in hard corners and should therefore help prevent some excessive and un usual movement. The next upgrade to these would be to go for solid metal bushes, however i don't want to damage the pickup points, due to the suspension design a small amount of play is required to prevent excessive forces being transmitted into the shell After all the shell is 33years old!
- Front & Rear (2.8i single leaf) PolyRace leaf spring bushes. These again will help stiffen up the suspension and prevent leafs from twisting and allowing excessive axles movements. Again the next upgrade to these would be solid bushings, but same as above io think it is wise to keep a small amount of play to absorb harsh impacts form the ride.
Please remember this car will also be driven on the road on occasion so i would rather not smash my spine!
- Compression strut kit for M1,2 Escorts. The TCA's(Track Control Arms) are the same on Capri's however the pickup point for a Capri is a different design to the Escort so a bit of modification is going to be required on the shell, where i choose to mount the fix points. I may have to get longer compression rods made up to allow a better pickup point location. Anyway these are rose jointed so there will be very little to no play in these bushings (to start with). However this will eventually allow the front suspension to be completely adjustable. For the short time to keep expense down, these will be used in conjunction with standard TCA's with polybushes fitted, but will be repalced in time with in-situ adjustable rose jointed TCA's.
After these are installed i will need to mock up the new arb front kit so i can plan how to re-connect the arb to the TCA's.

Question....
Since i am stripping the second hand single leaf springs down and then re-priming and painting what colour do you think i should paint the leaf springs. Options are black(my preference) or should i paint signal yellow like the shell will be painted? i could colour code the petrol tank straps the same. Its just as easy to do either. Don't get me wrong i am not building a show car or anything like that just would like some added input from others out there.
If not they will be black.

[Will01]

So today i got the brake pedal with brass bushes machined from the local engineering shop.
I still need to fettle the bushes slightly to give the fit that i want, i will post some pictures tomorrow at somepoint. Now this is sorted i can look into getting some much needed measurements for the Bias Box bulkhead panel. I can also look into purchasing a clevis pin or rose joint to fit on the brake pin on the pedal so that i can adjust the length in-situ.
Since the 2.0 Pinto is going back in to start with i not to worried about space issues, however if the 4.0 Jaguar V8 goes ahead i may have to look into changing the design of the bias box. We will cross that bridge when it comes.
Other good news is that i have sold quite a few bits and pieces off the spare Capri, which i didn't require. This will be going towards the Roll cage fund.

[Will01]

As promised, some pictures of modified brake pedal with new brass bushes

[Will01]

So this weekend we made a little progress with the front suspension. The compression struts were fitted onto some spare TCA's i had lying around(these will be replaced in time with in situ adjustable TCA's, but for the time being we just need to take measurements so as to get the right placement for the fixed mounting on the shell. This is quite difficult to do as the kit was designed for an escort and the fixed mountings are completely wrong for a Capri.
Therefore i have had to make up my own mounts. So far i do not have 2.5 or 3mm thick steel to make up the brackets, however with the help of cardboard and some thin sheet steel i have made a sort of prototype bracket mount.
Because of the forces going through this point i have also made a mounting plate which the bracket will fix to and then the whole lot will be welded in place. The mounting plate i have made out of 2mm thick steel sheet, this has been moulded around the chassis leg. I will then use some box section cut down with 3mm wall thickness to make the bracket for the fixed mounting and then weld this to the plate.
I decided not to fix all the front strut assembly at this point so that i could make sure the compression strut will move through its arc without causing a twist in the rose joint.
At this point i noticed that i had to cut the inner wing a little in order to allow space for the compression strut to move if full bump situation. I may end up changing the rose joints for higher misalignment bearings, however we will see how these work first.
You need to make sure the centre of the rose joint is in the centre axis of the bolt fixing for the TCA to cross member. If it is not when the arm move up through its arc, it will cause twisting of the mounting bracket and will lead to failure of the bearing.
This is incredibly difficult to measure due to the other parts in the way.
Once this was tested, everything was nipped up tight and then connected up with the front struts etc to make sure everything fits together. Unfortunately at this point it was found that the front antiroll bar would not fix how i thought it would. I may have to bend the bar slightly to get it into a better position, after my friend visited me with his Triumph Vitesse i noticed a different way of how i could fix the ARB to the TCA. This may result in less ground clearance on the front end, however for the use of the car i.e. on the track, i am not concerned.
I will share some pictures during the week.
Next job is to start getting the suspension and cross members ready with new bushes, therefore i am on the lookout for blast cleaning services nearby.

[Will01]

Some pictures

[Will01]

So it has been ages since i have touched the poor Capri, mainly because of the bad luck with cars we have been having recently e.g. having to keep the Corsa going because the Alfa clutch is slipping after taxing her and my wifes Cooper S has suspect headgasket failure! Couldn't really bring myself to work on something else if it wasn't priority.
Anyway since i had a few hours spare i decided to spend a little time continuing with the Capri and trying to finalise the front compression strut mounting.

I made up some panels out of 2mm mild steel and bent/shaped and made fit on the front chassis rail where the undefloor and engine chassis rail comes together.
This is because it was the chosen measured loacation for the pickup point for the compression strut mount.
These panels took a bit of shaping to get them to fit, i also drilled them full of hoels aswell so i could rosette(pulg) weld the panel in situ. Then these panels were 100% seam welded in place, after this all the welds were smoothed back and then primed to prevent rusting. Before the panels were welded in situ the panels were primed on the inner mating face and the chassis rails had to be prepped aswell.
From the pictures some of you Capri people(if there are any on here??) will be able to tell that a few mounting holes had to be plugged and smoothed out. This is because i didn't want moisture from the chassis rail getting between the panels and causing corrosion.
It is very important to keep the panel flat and straight as i will be welding the mounting point pickups to these strengthening panels.
I also shaped a pickup point out of some box section structural steel which is 3mm thick (it is either erw or cold drawn, i can't remember at the moment). This will then be seam welded to the strengtheing panel. This should provide a strong/reliable pickup point.
This is where the roll over jig really comes in handy.

For the immediate future the compression struts will be adjusted so that there is equal movement either way for adjustment in the stock(ish) location. This is because i will be using standard polybushed TCA's, however when funds permit, these will be upgraded with rosejointed in-situ adjustable items.

[Will01]

Not so good news is that i managed to smash the windscreen on the car whilst i had the car on the rollover jig, which i am pretty gutted about. Thankfully i have a spare screen off the car i broke for spares, but still a needless stupid mistake.
The added bonus i suppose it gives me a perfect excuse to remove the screen and check for any corrosion around the seal, which, no doubt being an old ford it will have.
At least i don't need to worry about masking up the screen or tryting to protect it from weld/grinding spatter.

[fingers99]

I can't remember if the Capri is getting a cage.

If it is, now would be the perfect opportunity to meld the cage into the A posts.