Race Engine Forum UK

I wouldn't mess with carter ventilation. The engine is designed to use PCV, and by not pulling the gasses out actively with intake vacuum, you will probably have a lot of sludge accumulate in there. Other than that, I believe you will need to find another way to regulate your idle air intake if you block the four small pipes going in.

Yes you have a good point Whizzman.

Not sure what effect reducing the vacuum on the crankcase will have.

Many owners of boxers that I have read have had no ill effects.
Also maybe with a rebuilt engine and good frequent oil changes there shouldn't be a sludge build up.

Not sure what to do now Whizzman. What about the 1 carb boxer sud? This does not have the PCV.

Maybe I can incoporate the catch container with a condenser above it but keeping the vacuum circuit from the carbs. As in the picture but without the filter, just the catch container and then this leads to the vacuum of the carbs?
Probably if I keep the vacuum and have the catch tank at a lower level with a condenser this will catch the oil and the carbs just take in the vapor.

come up with another solution keeping the vacuum and retaining an oil catch container with the 2 connectors inside the airbox that will lead to 2 small extra filters to avoid sludge getting into the carbs. Inside the airbox is a strong vacuum and will draw the vapor from the crankcase.
You can see the condenser spiral inside the T connector above the oil catch tank that will lead to the oil filler pipe.

The 4 small tubes will just remain pulling in clean filtered air from one of the trumpet connections.

This way I have reduced the sludge coming into the carbs and also enhanced the filter capacity maintaining the Vacuum to the crankcase.

I like it.

FINALLY I managed to get the allen bolts off the carb linkage!! Busted my shin in the process when the 400mm torque wrench finally let go!!

Had to cut a small piece off an allen key and attach it to several adaptors to get the leverage. I tried a lever on an allen key but they just bent at the angle!!!!

I will be for sure replacing these for standard 13mm or so hex bolts.
Way too much torque on these. More than the head bolts!!! The mechanic did weigh about 200 kilos!!! Recently had a massive heart but survived incredibly. He continues to smoke a pack a day (also while leaning over running V12 engines while adjusting the ignition timing!!!!) Next time he will be up in flames from one of his Mustang restorations!!

You can throw away that torque wrench now. They are a precision tool and not a pry bar. It's not calibrated anymore and getting it calibrated will cost you 2-3 times what a new one will cost.

Don't worry whizzman - it only seems operate as a torque wrench on the tightening stroke.


Anyway just to be sure I set it at about 12 kg (it goes up to 20kg), and no clicks.

It is new and works fine. I just torqued up the timing pulleys and it clicked nicely when it reached the specified torque clockwise.

Anti-clockwise it doesn't work the same way.

(also the cheapest torque wrench here will set you back about 70 quid - not sure how much calibration costs though).

change of distributor rotor and cap urgently needed. This weekend shopping list.
New cam in the left support. Very nice.
How about a transparent blue distributor cap? 009 Bosch? Not sure what mine is.

Love the cap!

I do like a bit of color on an engine!!*

G



* maybe cos I'm as blind as a bat without my specs!!

Some cam supports to match would be smashing!
Being able to view the cams and tappets in action! That would be something.

I'm afraid we'll be seeing black light tubes under the hood next.

* maybe cos I'm as blind as a bat without my specs!!

The old Simca factory used a system that identified camshaft grinds by having a number of rings cast between certain lobes.
Maybe that's an idea for you Guy? StI - 1 ring, StII - 2 rings... you could feel your way around the works!

;-)
Tom

Don't worry gentlemen the blue is a little awful. I'm looking at a new black top to match the top of the airbox and red Magnecor HT cables I have.

Very f*cking funny Tom!

I'm not that bad!!

G

Well here we go. New Bosch cap and Facet rotor with a 6600 rpm limiter.
Facet had to do(Italian for an Italian car!). They wanted 60 USD for a Bosch rotor (made in Brazil to add!!)!!! (just one shop for Bosch in this country).

Priming the engine with a new oil pump, cams and tappets:

Thinking I can prime the engine with the cam belts not attached.

If I turn the cam pulleys so all the valves are closed, no belts attached and then prime with the starter motor?

Reason is I don't want to prime with the cams rotating with the assembly grease on the lobes and tappets.