Race Engine Forum UK

It is a truly heroic effort.

I think the only reason you don't get more feedback is that most of us are struck dumb by sheer awe!

Yesterday I managed to install the fuel tank on the car. Sadly I forgot to attach the overflow hose so I'll have to take it down again.

And I have started the last of the bigger projects. The exhaust.

As i am really anxious to get the car rolling and the finances are runing thin I decided to re-use as much of the original exhaust as possible.

Or at least that was the idea....

Well on with the exhaust. As you can see much of the "original" exhaust is bodged up really badly and will need a lot of work to make it at least barely usable. I am more or less trying to make the exhaust low cost and fast. Once the car is drivable I belive I will treat myself to a proper stainles steel exhaust. So don't worry if it looks a bit home made ;)

Well didn't have much time today but i did manage to paint the 'hot' parts.

And continue with my temporary back 'box'.

Forgot to add yesterday that the paint used for the manifolf etc. is a silica based paint that can handle 600°C.

Today i only managed a small repair on the exhaust. The rest of the evening was lost sorting out details...

I got my new front silencer today.

It is very similar to the OE application which will have to do for now. 55mm internal diameter, 100mm external diameter, 500mm long should flow over 200 BHP easly.

Turbo engines don't produce anywhere near the exhaust noise of atmo engines and back-pressure downstream of the turbine is the last thing you want - therefore straight-thru & big bore is what you want. Never fit two silencers if one will do the job.


One will usually find a turbo silencer (muffler) from another application of similar cubic capacity will work just as well as the OE one - assuming it fits.

GC

Straight trough is the name of the game. For the time the pipe diameters will be kept stock but when I upgrade to stainless i will go for biger bore pipes.

Of course you can use silencers of similar cars and sometimes it is even a good idea as the OE items are usually really well made and can outlast the aftermaker cheap silencers at least three fold! But this is not the case on my car. As the smaller silencer the previous owner installed had been from a 1400-1600cc (75-100 BHP) VolksWagen Golf. And I am sure that this is not good enough for a 2000 cc turbocharged engine. Even the pipes for the silencer were 45mm in diameter where the Lancia uses 55mm.

I have been hard at work last few days.

I had to pull off all the door cards as I forgot to install the plastic "shower curtain" that is between the card and the door. Not sure what it does but I guess for peace of mind 2 hours of taking the cards off and on isn't that bad.

I also had to repair one of the door cards as the drawer broke lose. Managed to repair the plastic and convert it to screws.

An entire saturday was lost for fitting the front muffler. Numerous adjustments had to be made before I could stard welding it together. The mid section is finished finaly, welded up, welds grinded back, cleaned, surface rust treated with rust converter and than painted with high temp paint.

Hi samo, as GC pointed out turbo engines don't require much to keep them quiet. I use 3 inch(76mm) exhaust tubing into a 3x12 inch glass pack muffler. It doesn't really start to make much noise until about 5k rpm at which point it is no louder than a fast street bike. It is important though to put a 90 deg. turn down at the end of the exhaust pipe that points down at the ground. I put flanges on the pipe and muffler to bolt them together. This makes changing the muffler easy and allows different length mufflers to be installed for added noise reduction if required.

I think it would be important to add heat shields to your exhaust now even if you change the tubing size latter. A shield over the top of the exhaust manifold will keep your hood paint from blistering. A shield between the block and turbo will keep heat from transferring to the block. Adding a deflector where the pipe passes by the oil filter and follows the oil pan back to the flex hose. I have noticed many racers mount wideband sensors 2-3 feet behind the turbo to protect them from over heating. This indicates how much heat is in this section of the exhaust and why shielding is a good idea.

I think this is the least protection you should consider. I hope others will share their experiences with turbo installations.

Tim

Tim, why is it important to turn the exhaust down at the end ?

tricky wrote:Tim, why is it important to turn the exhaust down at the end ?

Hi tricky, I believe that it directs the sound at the ground and it can move off in 360 deg. after hitting the ground. Also I think that some of the reflected sound bounces back to the underside of the car and the energy is used up in vibrating the car. It makes a big difference when the track decibel meter is only pointed at one side of the car and the turn down is located between the rear tires. I work on a 67 Mini with a B16 V-TEC that according to the track meter was over the 92 decibel limit. Changing the exhaust tip put it below their limit.

Tim thank you for your advice informative and correct as usual but as this engine will not be used for racing and will not be tuned out of factory spec I will keep most of the original features. I have decided to modify the turbo oil feed line which in OE spec is bolted to the exhaust manifold and I changed that. I might also add a turbo wrap around the housing and a deflector above the manifold later when I have everything together. The exhaus pipes will stay straight as they probably will not produce much noise. As Guy menitoned the turbine muffles the sounds a lot. Added to that I have a muffler at the fron and the diameter of the mid section is 55mm which isn't exactly huge. So I don't think noise regualtion is gonna be an issue.

Did some work yesterday despite tha fact the outside temperature being -15°C which means that the temperature in the workshop dropped to something around +10°C and I could hardly move with all the layers of clothes on me...

+10 is a summers day in england :-)

Hi tricky, I believe that it directs the sound at the ground and it can move off in 360 deg. after hitting the ground. Also I think that some of the reflected sound bounces back to the underside of the car and the energy is used up in vibrating the car. It makes a big difference when the track decibel meter is only pointed at one side of the car and the turn down is located between the rear tires. I work on a 67 Mini with a B16 V-TEC that according to the track meter was over the 92 decibel limit. Changing the exhaust tip put it below their limit.

Excellent explanation, thank you.

tricky wrote:+10 is a summers day in england :-)

yes, weather and food aren't UKs best features :)

I more or less finished the rear box yesterday. Everything went fine till the last moment when I welded on the second bracket but I forgot to move the attachment flage to the end of the pipe. So now i have to remove the bracket to move the blange and re-weld it again.