Clutch: changing, balance and characteristics
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Clutch: changing, balance and characteristics
Just something I've been considering lately.
I had the whole rotating assembly balanced as part of my engine build, however, I'm considering changing the clutch. Its very aggressive and I might be doing more road driving that I had initially spec'd for, being that its a race clutch. A few options I've been looking at are:
1. Just put up with the aggressive nature of the clutch.
2. See if I can get less aggressive friction plates.
3. Swap the entire clutch/flywheel assembly out.
What would you do in this situation??
Thanks,
Ant
I had the whole rotating assembly balanced as part of my engine build, however, I'm considering changing the clutch. Its very aggressive and I might be doing more road driving that I had initially spec'd for, being that its a race clutch. A few options I've been looking at are:
1. Just put up with the aggressive nature of the clutch.
2. See if I can get less aggressive friction plates.
3. Swap the entire clutch/flywheel assembly out.
What would you do in this situation??
Thanks,
Ant
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
Need to know the type of clutch,
G
G
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
The one that I'm considering taking out is the one that I sent up to you Guy, and you checked it all out for me.
The clutch came with flywheel and all other fittings needed, so I would need to change out the flywheel and clutch if I go this route at a minimum. Its a great clutch for what its meant for, but I don't think I'll be as dedicated to drag racing as I once thought I might be.
I might just be having bad memories of it though, after all, its been 51 weeks since I drove the car, so thought I'd ask the question while it was on my mind.
The clutch came with flywheel and all other fittings needed, so I would need to change out the flywheel and clutch if I go this route at a minimum. Its a great clutch for what its meant for, but I don't think I'll be as dedicated to drag racing as I once thought I might be.
I might just be having bad memories of it though, after all, its been 51 weeks since I drove the car, so thought I'd ask the question while it was on my mind.
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
OK, sure, this one.
Unless you can get a sprung paddle clutch of the requisite torque capacity - in which case FW will need complete machining and whole crank,fw, clutch assy re-balanced (and anyway paddle clutch are also pretty harsh) you're stuck with it.
GC
Unless you can get a sprung paddle clutch of the requisite torque capacity - in which case FW will need complete machining and whole crank,fw, clutch assy re-balanced (and anyway paddle clutch are also pretty harsh) you're stuck with it.
GC
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
Yes Guy... thats the one alright.
Do you think that getting some less "grabby" friction plates would be the most feasible way around it?
Ant
Do you think that getting some less "grabby" friction plates would be the most feasible way around it?
Ant
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
You won't get any, all single/twin/triple plate 7.25 (and smaller) are like that,
GC
GC
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
Oh right. I thought it was the friction meterial (ceremetallic) that dictated the verocity of the bite?
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
Yes, but all single/multiplate clutches like that all use sintered or cerametallic facings and the have more-or-less identical frictional (and, importantly - wear) characteristics. Indeed paddle clutches do too.
Given that the facings have the same frictional (mu) value the capacity depends principally on the clamp load from the cover and the frictional diameter. These type facings are very hard and 'snatchy', and so they don't slip much compared with the organic facings used on conventional style clutches. Indeed if you slip them they burn out quite quickly, they are a 'drop and go' race design. Moreover your clutch has no torsion springs to absorb the shock load as the system engages.
My view is that you may have to go with it and get used to it. The GpB Ford Escort RS200 with Hart 16v turbo mounted in the back ran a triple plate so you're in good company.
GC
Given that the facings have the same frictional (mu) value the capacity depends principally on the clamp load from the cover and the frictional diameter. These type facings are very hard and 'snatchy', and so they don't slip much compared with the organic facings used on conventional style clutches. Indeed if you slip them they burn out quite quickly, they are a 'drop and go' race design. Moreover your clutch has no torsion springs to absorb the shock load as the system engages.
My view is that you may have to go with it and get used to it. The GpB Ford Escort RS200 with Hart 16v turbo mounted in the back ran a triple plate so you're in good company.
GC
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
Thanks Guy. That definately cleared up a lot of the differences between the clutch types.
thank you,
Ant
thank you,
Ant
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
If you want a Tilton that will allow for some slip you buy a carbon/carbon clutch. They are very good at what they do, just outside most folks' budget.
Other than that, its like Guy said!
Other than that, its like Guy said!
-Jason Miller
Miller's Mule Machine and Design Inc.
Houston, Texas - USA
Miller's Mule Machine and Design Inc.
Houston, Texas - USA
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
So carbon is more "slipable" than the ceramettalic plates?
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
Just had a look at Tiltons site, and it doesn't look like they do them for the 7.5" rally clutch.
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
Ant,
all clutches burn & thus lose material if you slip them deliberately, the thinner the friction layer the shorter the life....
G
all clutches burn & thus lose material if you slip them deliberately, the thinner the friction layer the shorter the life....
G
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Re: switching from 1 balanced component to another
surely there would be a difference in wear rates though?
I'm pretty sure I've exhausted all options of changing components on the specific clutch I have fitted. As such, if I want to change clutch I'll have to do flywheel as well, and also get a new bell housing and slave cylinder too.
Best I get used to this one me thinks!
I'm pretty sure I've exhausted all options of changing components on the specific clutch I have fitted. As such, if I want to change clutch I'll have to do flywheel as well, and also get a new bell housing and slave cylinder too.
Best I get used to this one me thinks!
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