Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
I've really enjoyed your posts too Will, and had trouble keeping up your various automotive activities. It's great to see people tackling these projects at home and always interesting to see how various aspects are tackled with the facilities available - proper 'real world' engineering and problem solving. I find it much more interesting than the 'cheque book' restorations where the owner just farms everything out to specialists.
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
Hi Tony/Simon4v6 wrote:What a lovely project Will, I have a great affinity for all the Jaguars as my father had around 13 of the various models over the years, ranging from the absolutely enormous 420G with the fold up trays in the seats and Mk10 models, (reg was MOX 725) half a dozen or so Mk2's of 2.4 to 3.8 litres, an Xj6 4.2 with the rollback fabric roof, Daimler double six with the stromberg carbs and a V12 5.3 Jaguar which I did a lot of restoration work on, I was only 18!
Nothing finer than swapping out the Lucas ACR alternators on the side of the road in the cold and dark in record time cos he couldnt get his big mitts down there to do it.
Your projects struck a definite chord with me as at the age of about 5 years old I was always inside the jags he was using for parts cars and I always used to get the job of stripping out the Smiths clocks, the switches etc and the pushbutton starter was like a magic trick to a kid at that age.
Fanatastic times.
Really good to see it coming together.
Tony.
I do remember when i was younger and not old enough to lend a helping hand that i used to climb about in an old E-Type shell watching my Dad weld away. Funny thing is that E-Type shell is still in the garage and still looks the same it did when i was very young. Over the years i have always been the one who has been handed the tools to work on the E-Type as i had the small hands. Unfortunately now i need to find more ingenious ways of trying to access all those hard to reach areas (of which there are alot on these old jags).
These old cars do open up many problems with limited resources at home, but it wouldn't be fun if it was easy. (i will try to remember that next time I'am getting frustrated with an immovable bolt)
Thanks guys for your kind comments
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So after a drive out in the car after re-packing the wheel bearing with grease we still found there to be a problem with the bearing play. Unfortunately this meant having to strip down the rear wheel hub which is a fun job.
Firstly removing the hub from the car is quite easy, but before i could do this i made up a lower hub bearing drift so that the bearings that connect the lower suspension arm to the hub could be kept in place and aligned.
Then the hub nut could be undone and the hub assembly simply pulled off the drive-shaft.
This is when it starts to get difficult! The Inner splined stub axle has to be separated from the hub assembly, to which i use a nice piece of wood to prevent damage as the hub is aluminium and the stub face is part of the bearing surface.
Then the bearings had to be removed from the stub axle and very carefully using a multitude of tools the races and spacer washer are prised and separated from the stub. This was very frustrating and i was consistently worried about causing damage, i took the decision to have to re-order a spacer washer which meant removal of the race was much easier(as i could give it a proper belting)
Removing the races from the hub however was quite scary as the bearings sit in the aluminium hub and no step is provided to allow the races to be removed. Unfortunately i did cause a little damage to the hub when the punch decided to slip, however this will be repaired and should cause no concerns whatsoever.
Firstly removing the hub from the car is quite easy, but before i could do this i made up a lower hub bearing drift so that the bearings that connect the lower suspension arm to the hub could be kept in place and aligned.
Then the hub nut could be undone and the hub assembly simply pulled off the drive-shaft.
This is when it starts to get difficult! The Inner splined stub axle has to be separated from the hub assembly, to which i use a nice piece of wood to prevent damage as the hub is aluminium and the stub face is part of the bearing surface.
Then the bearings had to be removed from the stub axle and very carefully using a multitude of tools the races and spacer washer are prised and separated from the stub. This was very frustrating and i was consistently worried about causing damage, i took the decision to have to re-order a spacer washer which meant removal of the race was much easier(as i could give it a proper belting)
Removing the races from the hub however was quite scary as the bearings sit in the aluminium hub and no step is provided to allow the races to be removed. Unfortunately i did cause a little damage to the hub when the punch decided to slip, however this will be repaired and should cause no concerns whatsoever.
- Attachments
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- DSC_0010.jpg (56.5 KiB) Viewed 27803 times
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- removed lower bolt
- DSC_0011.jpg (61.61 KiB) Viewed 27803 times
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- Hub removed from driveshaft
- DSC_0012.jpg (59.2 KiB) Viewed 27803 times
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- DSC_0013.jpg (82.22 KiB) Viewed 27803 times
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- Stub and hub separated
- DSC_0014.jpg (80.62 KiB) Viewed 27803 times
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- Bearings removed from stub
- DSC_0015.jpg (65.11 KiB) Viewed 27803 times
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- All parts separated, parts ready to be cleaned before nice new bearings fitted.
- DSC_0016.jpg (61.43 KiB) Viewed 27803 times
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So we are still working on the E-Type, really just waiting for hub to driveshaft spacer rings to be delivered as you have to reset this everytime you replace the wheel bearings.
To help us push the new bearings into place we decided to buy a nice hydraulic press, which works superbly well. Wish we had bought one years ago.
Both myself and my Dad were shocked at how easy it was compared to what we used to do in the past with sockets and hammers etc. To help us on our way i also made a little tool to help push bearings onto the stub axle, i have attached pictures if anyone is interested. This coupled with the hydraulic press worked amazingly well.
If anyone is doing this at home i would also suggest buying a bearing and bush pressing kit, preferably Metal as the Nylon ones tend to bend and distort.
Measuring the hub assembly for spacer thickness is quite tricky, however using some depth micrometers and the bearing tool we were able to calculate what spacer we required and ordered from Jaguar parts specialist. I think it is important when you do order spacers, that you do order bigger and smaller spacers around what you need. Personal experience tells me you never always get the spacer you ordered.
Hopefully my next post will be when the hub assembly is put back on the car ready for the MOT.
To help us push the new bearings into place we decided to buy a nice hydraulic press, which works superbly well. Wish we had bought one years ago.
Both myself and my Dad were shocked at how easy it was compared to what we used to do in the past with sockets and hammers etc. To help us on our way i also made a little tool to help push bearings onto the stub axle, i have attached pictures if anyone is interested. This coupled with the hydraulic press worked amazingly well.
If anyone is doing this at home i would also suggest buying a bearing and bush pressing kit, preferably Metal as the Nylon ones tend to bend and distort.
Measuring the hub assembly for spacer thickness is quite tricky, however using some depth micrometers and the bearing tool we were able to calculate what spacer we required and ordered from Jaguar parts specialist. I think it is important when you do order spacers, that you do order bigger and smaller spacers around what you need. Personal experience tells me you never always get the spacer you ordered.
Hopefully my next post will be when the hub assembly is put back on the car ready for the MOT.
- Attachments
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- 20 Ton press
- DSC_0106.jpg (56.18 KiB) Viewed 27754 times
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- DSC_0108.jpg (51.69 KiB) Viewed 27754 times
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- Bearing Press tool
- RearStubAxleBearingPress.jpg (128.58 KiB) Viewed 27754 times
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
Spacers that we ordered in the post arrived today, thankfully from the spacers I ordered one was the correct size. I have now checked in situ on the hub assembly and it gives us a gap of 0.003"-0.004" which is good as the book says 0.002"-0.006" gap between hub bearing seat and top of spacer. I will grease the hub up tomorrow and re-fit after work. Hopefully now that is all sorted for MOT.
Next on list is to look at steering rack mounts as there seems to be excessive movement.
Next on list is to look at steering rack mounts as there seems to be excessive movement.
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So took the car out today after torquing everything up. Unfortunately it has highlighted some play in the driveshaft so this will be next on the list to repair.
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So the E-Type has its MOT today, i am just waiting to hear if everything is ok?
We did go out and buy some new second hand wire wheels yesterday which will hopefully be fitted on the weekend.
The wheels and tyres are currently 185R15 (~80 profile)with tubed tyres (i think) and flat type inner wheel hubs. The new wheels are 205/70R15's which are recommended for Series 3 E-Types. They also have fresher Vredestein tyres fitted than the ones currently on the car.
We will need to try them to see how they suit the car, i have a feeling it might make the car more of a handful as the Series 1 & 2 should really have 185's. They will definitely make the steering heavier and may actually provide less feel. I am more concerned however about them scrubbing the arches. The great thing about these wheels is that 185's could be fitted if we don't like them.
The new wheels are also Curly type inner wheel hubs so we will also see how they suit the car. I think the early E-Types came with these type of wheels and they moved to flat hubs on later models. These particular wheels have been taken off an Aston Martin hence why they are wider.
Pictures of car before and after will be uploaded in due time.
For now i will keep my fingers crossed for MOT.
We did go out and buy some new second hand wire wheels yesterday which will hopefully be fitted on the weekend.
The wheels and tyres are currently 185R15 (~80 profile)with tubed tyres (i think) and flat type inner wheel hubs. The new wheels are 205/70R15's which are recommended for Series 3 E-Types. They also have fresher Vredestein tyres fitted than the ones currently on the car.
We will need to try them to see how they suit the car, i have a feeling it might make the car more of a handful as the Series 1 & 2 should really have 185's. They will definitely make the steering heavier and may actually provide less feel. I am more concerned however about them scrubbing the arches. The great thing about these wheels is that 185's could be fitted if we don't like them.
The new wheels are also Curly type inner wheel hubs so we will also see how they suit the car. I think the early E-Types came with these type of wheels and they moved to flat hubs on later models. These particular wheels have been taken off an Aston Martin hence why they are wider.
Pictures of car before and after will be uploaded in due time.
For now i will keep my fingers crossed for MOT.
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- Current wheels, looking bit tatty
- DSC_0194.jpg (40.39 KiB) Viewed 28738 times
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- New powder coated wheels with Vredestein tyres 205/70R15
- DSC_0193.jpg (46.43 KiB) Viewed 28738 times
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- New wheels with Curly type inner wheel hubs
- DSC_0192.jpg (76.27 KiB) Viewed 28738 times
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So the tyres and wheels have been fitted to the car, they do look great compared to the rusty ones that were on before. So far we are just running 30psi front and rear, however we will be pumping up the rears slightly more to help improve balance. However i can say that they do seem to run nicely on the car.
The tyres are obviously much better than the originals we had on, the car is now noticeably more sensitive. I think this is down to new/wider rubber and the suspension bushes are a bit soft. The car is certainly more responsive but maybe too much? Time will tell.
Even though they are wider wheels there doesn't seem to be any problem with rubbing in the arches and thankfully there doesn't seem to be a loss of feel in the steering which is what i feared the most.
Have a look and see for yourself, i am sure you will agree it looks much better.
The tyres are obviously much better than the originals we had on, the car is now noticeably more sensitive. I think this is down to new/wider rubber and the suspension bushes are a bit soft. The car is certainly more responsive but maybe too much? Time will tell.
Even though they are wider wheels there doesn't seem to be any problem with rubbing in the arches and thankfully there doesn't seem to be a loss of feel in the steering which is what i feared the most.
Have a look and see for yourself, i am sure you will agree it looks much better.
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- Old rusty Chrome wheels BEFORE
- DSC_0199.jpg (67.79 KiB) Viewed 28728 times
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- New powder-coated wheels AFTER
- DSC_0202.jpg (63.09 KiB) Viewed 28728 times
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
That's looking great Will, a nice set of wheels really transforms a car.
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So had a few problems recently with the E-Type as the driveshaft bearings were shot and it was causing the wheel to wobble. Today I took the time to fit a temporary replacement so that I could rebuild the original. This has to be done properly as the driveshaft is shimmed to adjust the camber. For now I have left the shims alone as they are set for the original shaft. But it will take time to rebuild so we fitted a temporary one so we can still move the car round the drive.
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
Just added some pictures of the new rollover jig bought to help with Capri restoration and also to help with E-Type Restoration in the future
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2992&start=105
See pictures of brackets for E-Type
Once the restoration in the Capri shell is complete this jig will be used to restore the other E-Type we have in the garage, this has been stripped down as a bare shell for some 28+years. It would be great to get on with this next year as this is my Dads dream restoration build and his dream car. I would love to help him build it up to his on spec so he can say it is his own.
I will start another restoration thread on the second E-Type when we start work again on it.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2992&start=105
See pictures of brackets for E-Type
Once the restoration in the Capri shell is complete this jig will be used to restore the other E-Type we have in the garage, this has been stripped down as a bare shell for some 28+years. It would be great to get on with this next year as this is my Dads dream restoration build and his dream car. I would love to help him build it up to his on spec so he can say it is his own.
I will start another restoration thread on the second E-Type when we start work again on it.
- Attachments
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- Rear Bracket for rollover jig for E-Type tub
- DSC_1349.jpg (241.89 KiB) Viewed 27836 times
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- Front Bracket for rollover jig for E-Type tub
- DSC_1350.jpg (226.34 KiB) Viewed 27836 times
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- DSC_1351.jpg (131.43 KiB) Viewed 27836 times
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- DSC_1352.jpg (125.43 KiB) Viewed 27836 times
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
Not too much to update on the E-Type front. Really we have(when i see we, i mean me as my Dad has been enjoying the Rileys instead) just been using and abusing the car as much as possible when the weather has not been too bad. There have been a few occasions where i have needed to borrow a car to go and buy parts in town and just enjoy a moments sunshine.
The car doesn't like to be left for long periods of time and always takes quite a while to warm up and start driving nicely.
Unfortunately the car broke down on the weekend, after checking the fuel pump was seen to be the fault.
For people information the car originally has an SU pump with contact points, for us anyway we had the original pump fail on us 10+years ago and we decided to upgrade at the time to the same style of pump but with digital electrics rather than points. Obviously this one has now failed.
THe next step is what to do with the car, i have already spoken to Guy and have talked through an idea with using electric (Facet) type pumps and use a fuel pressure regulator. We will just have to see what direction my father goes in. I would love to run a twin pump arrangement to help prevent breakdowns in the future.
One thing we are at least sold on is to use a Fuel pressure regulator, so with any luck we will be fitting a Malpassi fuel rpessure regulator in place of the original glass bowl filter in the engine bay. Luckily the Malpassi regulator with glass bowl look very similar to original, but also have an added use.
On research it appears that the triple SU's need between 2-3.5 psi fuel pressure. Again looking online i have found the standard type SU pumps can deliver anywhere between 1.5 & 4 with spikes up to 6psi. The regulator will definetely help us to get a more consitent fuel pressure which will ultimately help us to tune the car better later on.
I will update with pictures as and when. Thanks to Guy & Ian Nixon for their input, great job guys.
The car doesn't like to be left for long periods of time and always takes quite a while to warm up and start driving nicely.
Unfortunately the car broke down on the weekend, after checking the fuel pump was seen to be the fault.
For people information the car originally has an SU pump with contact points, for us anyway we had the original pump fail on us 10+years ago and we decided to upgrade at the time to the same style of pump but with digital electrics rather than points. Obviously this one has now failed.
THe next step is what to do with the car, i have already spoken to Guy and have talked through an idea with using electric (Facet) type pumps and use a fuel pressure regulator. We will just have to see what direction my father goes in. I would love to run a twin pump arrangement to help prevent breakdowns in the future.
One thing we are at least sold on is to use a Fuel pressure regulator, so with any luck we will be fitting a Malpassi fuel rpessure regulator in place of the original glass bowl filter in the engine bay. Luckily the Malpassi regulator with glass bowl look very similar to original, but also have an added use.
On research it appears that the triple SU's need between 2-3.5 psi fuel pressure. Again looking online i have found the standard type SU pumps can deliver anywhere between 1.5 & 4 with spikes up to 6psi. The regulator will definetely help us to get a more consitent fuel pressure which will ultimately help us to tune the car better later on.
I will update with pictures as and when. Thanks to Guy & Ian Nixon for their input, great job guys.
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So after quite a bit of discussion it has been decided to keep the fuel system completely stock and original. It is not what i wanted to do and i know that at somepoint in the future it is going to happen again where we end up stranded.
An original SU type fuel pump has been purchased and will replace the broken one. I will run the fuel pressure gauge i acquired recently to check what pressure we are supplying. We will also look at repalcing the fuel lines as these probably need re-freshing since they are original to the car.
I will however be making up a small facet pump system on the Capri and may setup a breakdown kit which could be transferrable between vehicles. We will see. After seeing the Malpassi fuel pressure regulator i think we will at least be adding this into the engine bay instead of the original eventually as there are soo many advantages to using one. It will also allow a better tune up of the engine if we can fuel the carbs consistently.
I will update pictures as and when we replace the parts.
An original SU type fuel pump has been purchased and will replace the broken one. I will run the fuel pressure gauge i acquired recently to check what pressure we are supplying. We will also look at repalcing the fuel lines as these probably need re-freshing since they are original to the car.
I will however be making up a small facet pump system on the Capri and may setup a breakdown kit which could be transferrable between vehicles. We will see. After seeing the Malpassi fuel pressure regulator i think we will at least be adding this into the engine bay instead of the original eventually as there are soo many advantages to using one. It will also allow a better tune up of the engine if we can fuel the carbs consistently.
I will update pictures as and when we replace the parts.
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So I fitted the new SU fuel pump into the E-Type on the weekend which was a very straight forward job and didn't take much time at all. The pump is noticeably more powerful than the last one, so it must had been failing for a while. I did try it first of all with the old fuel lines to check everything was ok, but the pipes are well past it and started leaking. I am still waiting on some rubber R9 fuel injection hose with 8mm diameter (close to 5/16). This new fuel hose should suit the ethanol content which we now find in our fuel. The ethanol content now hardens up the original type fuel hose and from my experience on the weekend the hoses were that hard i could not crush them at all, i had to cut the hoses off and stick them in an old kettle so i could get the fittings back. Not long now until i can take it out for another proper drive hopefully
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Re: Jaguar 1968 E-Type 2+2 Series 1 1/2
So last night straight after work whilst the sun was still shining i got the E-Type out of the garage(if you can call it that!) and then set about fitting some new fuel lines in.
Both fuel lines running from the fuel pump have now been replaced, they are approximately 10-12inch long. The outlet goes from the pump to a copper ppe running to the front of the car into the engine bay. The inlet comes from the tank in the boot, then goes into a splice which is where i have connected the new line to.
The local shops could only supply R6 type hose in pre-cut 1m lengths! The R6 is suitable to handle ethanol content in fuel, but it is designed for lower pressures compared with the R9 hose and a good deal cheaper.
I was rather hoping that we could buy off the reel but no-one nearby does this, hence why i have had to use a splice from the tank to the inlet hose on the fuel pump, it is just over 1m in length.
Does anyone know where i can buy a reel of fuel hose?
I have tried but everything online seems to be buy per metre, since we have soo many vehicles it would work out alot better just buying a reel.
Anyway i left the car running for a while with the fuel pump and then left with just ignition on to check if there were any leaks and all seemed well. I then took the car out for a good hard drive to make sure everything was running ok and i am glad to report all worked well and was very enjoyable. I will check this evening again, but i am now confident the car is good to be driven again.
Next to fix is the fan switch, i should probably explain this car has an electric kenlowe fan fitted, much better for keeping car cool. I have noticed that once the fan is operating the engine starts to miss! However if i cut the fan switch the engine runs well again?
I have gone through the wiring and have noticed that the live feed is spliced between coil and fan switch. I think this may be causing a slight drop in voltage to the coil which is causing a reduction in power to coil. We know the wiring loom on the car is old and original and in need of replacement. We have a new one in the box waiting for the next time the car comes off the road for a much more major rebuild. For the meantime i will run another ignition live feed for the fan circuit.
Alot of people say E-Types are prone to overheating, personally i find as long as the car is moving there is no issue, and we tend to do lots of faster and short runs so it never becomes an issue.
Both fuel lines running from the fuel pump have now been replaced, they are approximately 10-12inch long. The outlet goes from the pump to a copper ppe running to the front of the car into the engine bay. The inlet comes from the tank in the boot, then goes into a splice which is where i have connected the new line to.
The local shops could only supply R6 type hose in pre-cut 1m lengths! The R6 is suitable to handle ethanol content in fuel, but it is designed for lower pressures compared with the R9 hose and a good deal cheaper.
I was rather hoping that we could buy off the reel but no-one nearby does this, hence why i have had to use a splice from the tank to the inlet hose on the fuel pump, it is just over 1m in length.
Does anyone know where i can buy a reel of fuel hose?
I have tried but everything online seems to be buy per metre, since we have soo many vehicles it would work out alot better just buying a reel.
Anyway i left the car running for a while with the fuel pump and then left with just ignition on to check if there were any leaks and all seemed well. I then took the car out for a good hard drive to make sure everything was running ok and i am glad to report all worked well and was very enjoyable. I will check this evening again, but i am now confident the car is good to be driven again.
Next to fix is the fan switch, i should probably explain this car has an electric kenlowe fan fitted, much better for keeping car cool. I have noticed that once the fan is operating the engine starts to miss! However if i cut the fan switch the engine runs well again?
I have gone through the wiring and have noticed that the live feed is spliced between coil and fan switch. I think this may be causing a slight drop in voltage to the coil which is causing a reduction in power to coil. We know the wiring loom on the car is old and original and in need of replacement. We have a new one in the box waiting for the next time the car comes off the road for a much more major rebuild. For the meantime i will run another ignition live feed for the fan circuit.
Alot of people say E-Types are prone to overheating, personally i find as long as the car is moving there is no issue, and we tend to do lots of faster and short runs so it never becomes an issue.
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