Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
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Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
I thought it was about time i posted something about the hillclimb car i'm building. I have LOADS of project photos on another forum which would take hours to downsize and upload here, so i thought i'd just post photos of the engine build. As much as i'd have loved to, I won't be spending the money on race rods and pistons but I will none the less try and build it to a high a standard as practicable.
So here is the starting point, a 1.6 turbo i.e. block stripped of its ancillaries and head removed-
No fancy wash machines here, just a Jizer spray bottle, a couple of old tooth brushes and tentative but surprisingly willing assistant (the missus!). A bit of elbow grease later and we're getting there-
I always like to keep it covered up-
With all the ancillaries kept in one place-
My lovely assistant on the case again (at the cost of me buying dinner out!) removing the oil pump-
The engine turned over and ready to remove the mains caps. I didn't realise how tight these were, even with my weight balanced on top and the missus swinging on the breaker bar we were still just spinning on the work-mate-
Time to get the gun out, cue comedy bond-girl pose!-
With the core plugs removed I gave the water galleries a brush and blast, then poured a couple of kettles of boiling water over it and sat the block in front of the space heater to make sure it dried properly-
Then it got a session from the brush drill/grinder before hammerite red oxide primer and two layers of top coat-
Now its time to hone those bores. Bit of a step at the top, the engine has done about 75k but for this project i can live with it-
The rods/pistons removed and ready for splitting and cleaning-
Now on to balancing the rods. I started by making a stand with a bearing'd swing arm to hold the small end and then made an L shaped stand with 2 small bearings which holds the big end and sits on the scale. Then it was a case of linishing the caps to match the big end weights to the lightest one, then weighing the whole rod on the scale and matching the weights by removing metal from the small end-
Onto the head - I never did seem to get that pesky exhaust cam thrust plate to stop leaking, so it was time for drastic action. They are designed for a specific thickness of gasket (about 25 thou if i remember correctly) which are getting hard to get hold of, i finished off Tanc Barratts stock a couple of years ago. If you use no gasket or too thin a gasket like I did a couple of years ago (almost had valve/piston contact!) you can lock or at least restrict the cam from rotating-
So I turned down a thrust face (23 thou deep) and i'm going to use a liquid sealant. I've trial fitted it with no sealant and its given 7 thou end float, Guy recommends 3 to 9 thou so even if sealant spaces me out another 1 thou i can live with that-
More coming soon.
Guy
So here is the starting point, a 1.6 turbo i.e. block stripped of its ancillaries and head removed-
No fancy wash machines here, just a Jizer spray bottle, a couple of old tooth brushes and tentative but surprisingly willing assistant (the missus!). A bit of elbow grease later and we're getting there-
I always like to keep it covered up-
With all the ancillaries kept in one place-
My lovely assistant on the case again (at the cost of me buying dinner out!) removing the oil pump-
The engine turned over and ready to remove the mains caps. I didn't realise how tight these were, even with my weight balanced on top and the missus swinging on the breaker bar we were still just spinning on the work-mate-
Time to get the gun out, cue comedy bond-girl pose!-
With the core plugs removed I gave the water galleries a brush and blast, then poured a couple of kettles of boiling water over it and sat the block in front of the space heater to make sure it dried properly-
Then it got a session from the brush drill/grinder before hammerite red oxide primer and two layers of top coat-
Now its time to hone those bores. Bit of a step at the top, the engine has done about 75k but for this project i can live with it-
The rods/pistons removed and ready for splitting and cleaning-
Now on to balancing the rods. I started by making a stand with a bearing'd swing arm to hold the small end and then made an L shaped stand with 2 small bearings which holds the big end and sits on the scale. Then it was a case of linishing the caps to match the big end weights to the lightest one, then weighing the whole rod on the scale and matching the weights by removing metal from the small end-
Onto the head - I never did seem to get that pesky exhaust cam thrust plate to stop leaking, so it was time for drastic action. They are designed for a specific thickness of gasket (about 25 thou if i remember correctly) which are getting hard to get hold of, i finished off Tanc Barratts stock a couple of years ago. If you use no gasket or too thin a gasket like I did a couple of years ago (almost had valve/piston contact!) you can lock or at least restrict the cam from rotating-
So I turned down a thrust face (23 thou deep) and i'm going to use a liquid sealant. I've trial fitted it with no sealant and its given 7 thou end float, Guy recommends 3 to 9 thou so even if sealant spaces me out another 1 thou i can live with that-
More coming soon.
Guy
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
I thought at this point i'd introduce you to the flywheel. I think i'm right in saying that at 5.55kg it seems fairly light compared to integrale etc-
I've measured its thickness across the face, measurements in inches-
Before I get it balanced with the crank, I need to get it refaced but if possible i'd like to lighten it whilst i'm there. Looking at the figures can anyone suggest if I can safely take any meat off?
Guy
I've measured its thickness across the face, measurements in inches-
Before I get it balanced with the crank, I need to get it refaced but if possible i'd like to lighten it whilst i'm there. Looking at the figures can anyone suggest if I can safely take any meat off?
Guy
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
hi Guy,
That's a very nice assistant you have there, and the engine ain't bad either! :-)
Your flywheel looks pretty much lightened already, could it be someone was at it before?
There is some written both on the site and in Guy's book about taking off material, including some useful pictures. As far as I can see in pictures 91 and 92 you have thicknesses in the 0,4" region, that's near 10mm. You really must not go thinner than that on cast iron flywheels.
Make sure you read this: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1851
regards
Tom
That's a very nice assistant you have there, and the engine ain't bad either! :-)
Your flywheel looks pretty much lightened already, could it be someone was at it before?
There is some written both on the site and in Guy's book about taking off material, including some useful pictures. As far as I can see in pictures 91 and 92 you have thicknesses in the 0,4" region, that's near 10mm. You really must not go thinner than that on cast iron flywheels.
Make sure you read this: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1851
regards
Tom
Last edited by TomLouwrier on April 10th, 2012, 4:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
GC_29
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
Heh she's doesn't mind getting stuck in if there's a reward, gotta get the girls involved! (even if it does mean bribery!) yes i read in the book i think that 10mm is the thinnest you can go. Its a totally standard flywheel and just like the other 1.6 ie items i've got, i might have let a secret out of the bag there! I was thinking i might be able to take that outer radius further out, lose some weight where it counts the most. Any input on this is most welcome as i'm kind of floating in limbo at the moment.
Guy
Guy
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
Just added something important to my previous post:
Make sure you read this: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1851
Tom
Make sure you read this: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1851
Tom
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
Thanks Tom, i forgot about NDTing it. Luckily I have an NDT department at my disposal that use UV penetrant die, so any cracks will show up no problem. Thanks for reminding me!
Guy
Guy
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
Hi there! Always nice to have extra hands in projects =)
Comparing to stock TC flywheel, this flywheel is very light allready. I wouldn't go any lighter. Outer egde is nicely radiused. There has to be some "meat" to hold starter ring gear in place.
If your starter ring gear is badly "grinded", now it's time to turn it upside down.
And oh, I've always refaced my cast flywheels in a big lathe. Even they have been pretty bad mirror finish on them, basic cutter has done the job easily. But I'm not a machinist, so I don't do these my self. I just watch when professionals do the job.
-T
Comparing to stock TC flywheel, this flywheel is very light allready. I wouldn't go any lighter. Outer egde is nicely radiused. There has to be some "meat" to hold starter ring gear in place.
If your starter ring gear is badly "grinded", now it's time to turn it upside down.
And oh, I've always refaced my cast flywheels in a big lathe. Even they have been pretty bad mirror finish on them, basic cutter has done the job easily. But I'm not a machinist, so I don't do these my self. I just watch when professionals do the job.
-T
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
yes I started to think this after i posted the photos. I had thought about the possibility of turning down the face with a carbide radius tip tool, but i think it might try and "jump" over hard hot-spots. I think i'll stick with grinding.Urbancamo wrote: I wouldn't go any lighter. Outer egde is nicely radiused. There has to be some "meat" to hold starter ring gear in place.
Guy
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
Don't lighten that 1.6 FW any more than it has been by Lancia themselves - it is near optimal considering it's made of cast-iron.
Survey the friction face region for flatness and parallelism to the mounting flange and if more than a couple of thou" out of true get it ground flat (which is the only effective way to do it really) and reproduce the 20thou" step after to correct diameter.
After these ops it must be balanced with the crank. This is necessary whenever metal removal is undertaken.
G
Survey the friction face region for flatness and parallelism to the mounting flange and if more than a couple of thou" out of true get it ground flat (which is the only effective way to do it really) and reproduce the 20thou" step after to correct diameter.
After these ops it must be balanced with the crank. This is necessary whenever metal removal is undertaken.
G
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
Thanks Guy. I guess i may as well get it ground now as i'm getting the crank balanced anyway.
Thanks for everyone's input, it'll be going in for NDT soon so i'll see if its a good one.
Guy
Thanks for everyone's input, it'll be going in for NDT soon so i'll see if its a good one.
Guy
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
If they use Magnetic particle method make sure they demagnetise it after.
G
G
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Re: Lancia Delta 1.6 HF Turbo ie hillclimb...
Although we have that facility, they just used UV penetrant and checked it in a UV light booth. Luckily the chap who did it for me has done cranks before and seen some horrible cracking. He knows what a bad one looks like and gave my crank and flywheel the all-clear. The flywheel is in the local race engine shop having its face ground, then i'm going to go along next week and watch them balance the crank. I've never seen it being done so now would be the perfect opportunity. I've key-holed the crank and actually polished the holes with a large thin scotch wheel, which gave a finish i am happy with. After that it got a good blast in the hot-wash with the flywheel, then a coat of Vinabrite dewatering spray. Plenty more photos coming soon!Guy Croft wrote:If they use Magnetic particle method make sure they demagnetise it after.
G
Guy
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