Lada 2105 / January 29th update: icetrack driving
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building
Please pm the link to me
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building
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Last edited by Urbancamo on June 17th, 2014, 8:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
I knew someone had been reading Zuk's Gear page! Great job on setting up that chunk, mate.
I was looking everywhere for my gear chain tensioner/adjustable cam sprocket pics but it seems like I left them on my ex's computer... There's a couple links to them on some other Lada forums I'm a member of, but I'd rather take some new pics than incur in a most blatant GC forums violation myself.
I was looking everywhere for my gear chain tensioner/adjustable cam sprocket pics but it seems like I left them on my ex's computer... There's a couple links to them on some other Lada forums I'm a member of, but I'd rather take some new pics than incur in a most blatant GC forums violation myself.
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
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Last edited by Urbancamo on June 17th, 2014, 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
GC_25
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
Nice work.
AFR sensor and gauge is uesful.
I have a wideband sensor and glowshift gauge. Great to see the main jets working while cruising and idling also. Great investment IMHO.
AFR sensor and gauge is uesful.
I have a wideband sensor and glowshift gauge. Great to see the main jets working while cruising and idling also. Great investment IMHO.
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
If you ask why upper radiator hose is sucked flat, it's because the rad cap don't allow fluid to sucked from expansion tank while cooling. I don't know why, it has been like this for years.
Hi Tommi,
I followed your post from the beginning, well done indeed. I guess the vacuum valve in the radiator cap is blocked. Probably due to having driven with water instead of coolant in the past. Checked as shown in picture below.
Regards
Daniel
Hi Tommi,
I followed your post from the beginning, well done indeed. I guess the vacuum valve in the radiator cap is blocked. Probably due to having driven with water instead of coolant in the past. Checked as shown in picture below.
Regards
Daniel
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
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Last edited by Urbancamo on June 17th, 2014, 8:01 pm, edited 4 times in total.
GC_25
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
From what I hope I've learned from Guy and his book, your cam profile has a lot to do with how much your ports will flow. Judging by what work you have done and indeed your single carburetor, the rest of your engine probably won't be able to flow more than this cam is made for?
It's good to see you found a nitride treated cam. There are not a lot of shops that will do that. I think I know one or two shops in the Netherlands that can do it, but if you bring work their way, they also know how much to charge for it.
How much base circle is ground off? Will you have the correct shims for it?
It's good to see you found a nitride treated cam. There are not a lot of shops that will do that. I think I know one or two shops in the Netherlands that can do it, but if you bring work their way, they also know how much to charge for it.
How much base circle is ground off? Will you have the correct shims for it?
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
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Last edited by Urbancamo on June 17th, 2014, 8:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
GC_25
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
I should have looked at the layout of the Lada engine before asking about the shims. Are you going to try different timings for the cam, or did you already do that?
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
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Last edited by Urbancamo on June 17th, 2014, 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
Keep in mind that the radiator isn't the only thing requiring cold air flow under the bonnet. If you block air flow, only warm air from the radiator will get under the hood. As long as sufficient air is flowing through the radiator, I don't see a reason to block other air inlets.
Book #348
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
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Last edited by Urbancamo on June 17th, 2014, 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
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Last edited by Urbancamo on June 17th, 2014, 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
GC_25
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Re: Lada 2105 / Engine building / Diff assembly
Apologies for chiming in so late.
You definitely need to make one of these:
Basically, I looked at a couple pictures on the internet and drew something up on an easier-than-AutoCAD (sorry, but I never got around learning AutoCAD, no wonder people learn about it in college) design software called eMachineShop. Then I took a couple prints to a local machinist along with a brand-new original non-adjustable sprocket who machined the center hub out of a piece of 3" diameter 4130 steel. Bolts are M8 8.8 grade.
You can couple it up with one of these:
The design of this one is available for free download from a very well-known Niva community in Russia. It uses a stock crankshaft sprocket with its center machined to accept a SKF 6003 ball bearing. It's supposed to minimize friction from the stock chain tensioner shoe and improve acceleration a slight bit (well, reportedly. I won't be able to find that out until I assemble my engine and take it for a spin).
The only thing I'm missing is a properly-engineered chain damper, anybody who owns a Lada knows a bit about how the stock dampers are prone to fail. I've toyed with the idea of having something machined out of Delrin or Graphlon buch such fancy materials are very hard to come by here were I live.
I can post the drawings with dimensions here -with previous approval from Guy, of course- or e-mail them to you.
Thanks for keeping us updated,
You definitely need to make one of these:
Basically, I looked at a couple pictures on the internet and drew something up on an easier-than-AutoCAD (sorry, but I never got around learning AutoCAD, no wonder people learn about it in college) design software called eMachineShop. Then I took a couple prints to a local machinist along with a brand-new original non-adjustable sprocket who machined the center hub out of a piece of 3" diameter 4130 steel. Bolts are M8 8.8 grade.
You can couple it up with one of these:
The design of this one is available for free download from a very well-known Niva community in Russia. It uses a stock crankshaft sprocket with its center machined to accept a SKF 6003 ball bearing. It's supposed to minimize friction from the stock chain tensioner shoe and improve acceleration a slight bit (well, reportedly. I won't be able to find that out until I assemble my engine and take it for a spin).
The only thing I'm missing is a properly-engineered chain damper, anybody who owns a Lada knows a bit about how the stock dampers are prone to fail. I've toyed with the idea of having something machined out of Delrin or Graphlon buch such fancy materials are very hard to come by here were I live.
I can post the drawings with dimensions here -with previous approval from Guy, of course- or e-mail them to you.
Thanks for keeping us updated,
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