Peugeot 205 GTI 8v track/sprint car

[smckeown]

About the cardboard wrapped oil cooler, Are you not using a thermostatic take off plate? that should resolve the problem

That was my original thought to regulate the temperature. However I spoke to thinkauto about this and they said an oilstat is fine in principle. But for a race car in their opinion more hassle than they are worth. They said the problem was the possibility of the thermostat opening when your engine was at high revs and pumping cold oil to your bearings. So that's why I went the coated cardboard.

Someone else has mentioned that the oilstats are alwatys slightly open, therefore enabling the oil to be warm in the oil cooler, but I have no confirmation of this.

If anyone else has more information, i'm all ears

[cantfindausername]

Looking really good! If this car is out and about on the road I'll have to keep my eyes open as I'm in West Sussex too.

[smckeown]

Just a small update. With the poor weather and being busy at work not great progress lately. The car is still due to go down to Sandy Brown in the middle of April for mapping / tuning and then onto Colin Satchell for handling improvements.

Here are some details of the ceramic coated race spec longmans manifold going on before mapping:



Primaries: ~605mm length and 36mm ID
Secondaries: 335mm length and 44mm ID
Collectors: Merge Type

More details on my website here: http://www.track-monkey.co.uk/2058v_latest.htm

A pic of luke with the car yesterday:

[smckeown]

Compared my my oil filler with another I had spare in the garage (as a result of my catch tank filling up rather quickly while running in the rings):





Guess i'll fit the spare one to see if that helps

Also trial fitted the new coilpack for the DTA ECU and the new Bosch solicone ignition leads from a citroen ZX 1.9 (only just over £20..bargain)

[smckeown]

The road to a reliable track car, and the start of a sprinting continues...

I've been busy on a few mini projects recently..here's come progress.

8 injectors

Firstly there is the 4 to 8 injector setup to install. I've been talking with the chaps at Earls to design a safe and hopefully cost effective setup.

My main objective here was to ensure it's safe. I don't want extra hoses flapping about and putting pressure on fuel joins in my engine bay, so that was my main motivation for designing it right first time.

It took me a good while to understand the difference between hose ends like Swivel-Seal and Auto-Mate.

Firstly I documented the existing setup..



Here it is pictured:



This is the latest design, most notable using bulkhead attached t pieces, rather than t-pieces not attached to anything! Another design element is to eliminate the fuel line that is crossing my cam cover, it will now feed from under (and be secured to) the air box



I'm hoping to agree this, resolve a few unaswered questions, and order the fittings next week.

Catch Tank

I've posted about this on a few forums. I now have a design i've send to a few fabricators to get their opinion/comments on.

My design is to locate the catch tank where the current screen wash bottle is, so has been designed with dimensions based on this.

This is required the flow of oil/vapour.



This will both provide more breathing volume and remove the current oil filler tower and all associated pipework, resulting in a more efficient system and less pipework/neater install.

It will mean an oil filler is needed in the cam cover, and I dropped a spare off to QEP yesterday. They will also tap a new breather in the cam cover and baffle it.

Here's the design of the catch tank



The benefits of the system is that it will be secured using the existing mounts used currently by the washer bottle.

I have also ordered 2 genuine K&N breather filters, with 3 breatehrs attached, I thought more than 1 tine filter would be of benefit.

Other

The car won't be going down to Sandy Brown and Colin Satchell in April :( Sandy is just too busy and can't really fit me in. So i've had to bite the bullet and cancel goodwood at the end of May.

This will give me more time to get all the jobs I want to get done myself.

oil pressure gauge

After reading more on this, i've decided to change from my recently installed electrical sender and gauge to a mechanical one. That was ordered from racetech this week and they are making up the hose for me.

DTA ECU install

I was going to get sandy todo this for me initially, but i'm going to have a crack at it myself. I already have had a loom made professionally, all I need todo is install the correct live feeds, fuses and relay(s). I have an idea how I want it to look; all items mounted on an ali small plate, bolted to the firewall via rubber spacers to alleviate vibrations.

[cantfindausername]

Thats all looking really good, and moving along at a nice pace too! Interesting to see another 8 injector set up. This is what I've opted for on my car, but its being left in the capable hands of Phill Lanes at G&G Motorsport.

Do you mind me asking why you've swapped back to a mechanical Oil Pressure gauge?

Thanks,
Ant

[smckeown]

I've had help from someone that's installed plenty of 8 injector setups previously, and hoping a simplified version something like this will be used:



The mechanical on reacts quicker to pressure changes. So if like me you video your sessions with the AFR and oil pressure in full fiew, rather than thinking it's the right/;eft handers that are causing issues, it might be the hard braking bfore that, the mechanical one will react instantaneously, and may be more accurate too

[cantfindausername]

I do plan on videoing as many track circuits as possible, but wasn't aware of the difference in response time between the gauges. Food for thought thats for sure! Would be very interested to see a side by side comparison.

Being mid engined, I'm not overly keen on running oil over that distance through the cabin. hmm... guess I could run it under the car with the water/heater pipes.

[smckeown]

Well ever race engine builder that has advised on gauges always state mechanical. The oil line should be braided, and if you get someone like reacetech to make the oil line and fittings up for you professionally (like they are for me) then it's more secure

[cantfindausername]

yes I think braided line would have to be used for sure. I think I have just been put off from horror stories of people using copper pipe, nylon etc and the problems you hear with them perishing. I might look into this in the future. I'm confident to make up the pipe myself... I had alot of practice with -3 hose when I was fitting my clutch kit.

You've definately got me thinking about the switch to mechanical now thats for sure!

[smckeown]

The latest version of the fueling system includes a getting rid of the adjustable FSE regulator and swapping this for a static 3 bar bosch regulator. At the same time I will relocate the regulator away from it's current bulkhead position (near the exhaust manifold) and locate it onto the fuel rail.

I need a fabricator to convert my fuel rail end from a push on type to a screw-on -6 end, using something like this:



Then I can fit the new regulator and housing from jenvey (does anyone know of an alternative supplier, i'd like the fuel pressure gauge to also be located in the housing if possible ?)

Here's the jenvey supplied item:



The resulting setup will then be this:



Now on the basis I don't need t pieces, I might consider not using the bulkhead connectors for the airbox, and just secure the fuel hose using push on fittings using another clip type method. This would reduce the cost considerably.

[Rich Ellingham]

I'd do something different,

Take your feed line an get a -6 AN fitting in the end female swivel (I had one swaged onto one of my OE pipes), use a 2 way fork splitter from think auto (-6 male to 2x -6 male), use bulk head fitting as suggester for the air box. Take both return feeds from both rails to a Fuel Lab 515 series regulator - this has 2 incoming retun feeds from the fuel rails (remember v8's commonly have 2 rails) and a single return to tank underneath the regualtor - this will control pressure in both lines and return to one(it is adjustable with 1/9 NPT for fuel pressure gauge - Im using this item). The regulator has -6 an females all round so you need a few -6 male male to connect to the usual female swivels.

Show us a picture of the current fuel lines as they are near the engine.

[smckeown]

Hi Rich,

Yes I have seen other configurations where more than 4 injectors are live at the same time. In my configuration the inner and outer injectors are used in a mutually exclusive way. Only for a very short time period (during the transition around 4500 rpm) are all 8 live; and that's when a set are increasing their duration while the other are decreasing. So all in all ther's no additional fuel requirement across both fuel rails vs. the single rail.

Also the above setup (v3) is a proven setup by the guy doing the mapping

thank you
Sean

[smckeown]

More updates from me.....

As the car will be with me longer I will do a few jobs myself.

Firstly is to wire i nth enew ECU. I have a sweet loom made up, but there is the relay wiring I want to get sorted first.

I have had input already, this is my first draft of how I think it all hangs together, i'll get it verified by those in the know..



Next onto a few more general items....

Here is the existing / standard location of the washer bottle. This space will be occupied by the new catch tank being made up currently.



That means it will need to go up here in the popular place to relocate it



Not so nice mayo from the cam cover, I wonder if this will be better with the new breather setup ?



I drained the run-in oil and changed filter, and didn't like what I found. What looks like metal bits...might have to get the sump off and see if any more is at the bottom of the sump

[cantfindausername]

Is this a new build engine? And is it actual "chunks" of metal?

When I ran mine in there was a real metalic shine to the oil from all the ring material, and the magnetic sump plug had an aweful lot of filings clinging to it.