Dear all,
Well the problems keep coming up but progress is forwards. First off, was to sort my template, mocked up cables for the handbrake made into some proper items. Glad to say the templates were perfect and the company that made up the new cables did a great job. See below for one of the 2 new cables (now installed)
- Custom Handbrake cables 2019 06 10 (1).jpg (34.2 KiB) Viewed 76 times
The next big thing was the electronic brain (OMEX), because I can no longer fit a distributor in any of the standard configs (block or cam drive (side or rear)). Thus the engine has a trigger wheel built into the front crankshaft drive (thanks Guy) so I can run an OMEX with coil pack. I’ve mounted the OMEX through the bulk head so the wiring is into the engine bay but I can access the config port through the passenger glove box. Using a minimum of sensors (trigger wheel, MAP, air temp, coolant temp and coil pack) it’s all wired in. I haven’t yet cut off the other sensor wires in case I decide to use them. But all the sensors and wires are run and wrapped up in sleeving, see below:
- OMEX.JPG (56.65 KiB) Viewed 76 times
One interesting piece of information I found out was the latest Weber DCOE’s have a vacuum take off that I was able to use for the MAP sensor, so no drilling manifolds for me.
Fuel lines have been plumbed, as you can see, with a filter king regulator (car is running out of space for more stuff).
- omex fuel and coil pack.JPG (66.68 KiB) Viewed 73 times
With all the basics (I think) connected it was time to start to adding some fluids. First was oil, which I was worried about because of all the new oil line connections. So filled up and primed the system, via the auxiliary pulley and drill, and the only thing that leaked was one of the mechanical oil temp gauge take offs. Could I stop it – nope. So finally it’s gone and will be replaced by an electronic one. But as I already have another separate mechanical oil temp gauge in the system I can live with this compromise.
Filling up the supercharger oil reservoir proved to be a whole lot easier, though when starting from a dry build you’ve got to top it up a few times as the level sorts itself out.
Next up is water and I’ve added water wetter and paraflu, couple of leaks that needed sorting but now all good. So on with the grille.
- engine install 2019 06 15.JPG (60.31 KiB) Viewed 76 times
With all the fluids in and no more leaks I have now been able to final install the radiator and bolt the grille back on properly (in previous pictures it was just for testing). With the handbrake sorted I’ve been able to put the rear wheels back on and the car is almost ready to go back to the ground and get shipped off for the exhaust build.
- car side 2019 06 15.JPG (55.36 KiB) Viewed 76 times
Couple of remaining items – little tidy up inside, reconnect the lights, re-install the front wing and check that the throttle opens fully. This has to be done by pressing the pedal to the floor and checking that you are getting full opening down the carb barrel. You cannot check it by pushing the throttle linkage down to see it opens fully. I learnt this from a rolling road experience some many years back.
Also do not use a rolling road just because it is convenient apply the question that was put to me afterwards, “how much is your engine worth to you?”
Fortunately the experience was chastening but not expensive – but it could have been.
Having taken possession of my, then new, GC engine I was advised where to take my car to get it set up once installed. But I decided it was too far and looked locally, for convenience only, at various nearby rolling roads. Surely all rolling roads are the same – they are not.
I checked out their feedback which was fine but should have noted that everything they did was modern and probably have driven away when the guy looked at the engine and remarked “haven’t seen one of those for years – it’s got carbs” or something similar.
Leaving the car I went away and came back a couple of hours later, again leaving the car with an unknown vendor was probably naive. However, the biggest shock on returning was the results – 130 HP. Followed by “that’s pretty good for one of those engines” and “Oh yes we replaced your race plugs”. At this point the penny dropped and I asked for my race plugs back and took the car away. Fortunately they hadn’t changed a whole lot more.
To say I was massively disappointed in the results was an understatement and could only assume there was something wrong with the engine.
Then came back the advice above “how much is your engine worth to you?”
Finally taking this on board I decided to take it to Northampton Motorsport to hopefully figure out what was wrong. Fortunately the major issue turned out to be the very simple lesson above and the very first thing first thing Northampton did – “your throttle is not fully opening so you are not getting full power”. The final results where closer to 180 BHP.
I must be absolutely clear that I do not make judgement on the ability of the original service as they probably got quite a reasonable amount of power from the restricted throttle. I provide this story as a reflection on my choice and how I made it purely for convenience and taught me this simple lesson about how to check for full throttle.
Completing the final checks, tidy ups and tests hopefully the next big thing will be getting the exhaust built and, oddly enough, from the story above I’m going to take it to the person I was advised to take too and not the bod down the road my mate knows.
Regards,
Steven
