DIY 2.0 TC engine step-by-step rebuild with GC

Road-race engines and ancillaries - general discussion
Alan
Posts: 25
Joined: May 14th, 2007, 1:50 pm
Location: Galway, Ireland (A)
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Re: DIY 2.0 TC engine step-by-step rebuild with GC

Post by Alan »

Guy,
This is definitely the crank from the rally 2.0, the other crank is still in the block.
As soon as I finish lightening the FW I will organise getting the lot over to you for balancing so.
Here are more pics of the crank (not sure which is the nose, so here are both ends).
Are there any other markings that I could look for to identify the crank?
Alan.
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parrish
Posts: 62
Joined: June 22nd, 2006, 7:11 pm
Location: Teesside UK
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Re: DIY 2.0 TC engine step-by-step rebuild with GC

Post by parrish »

Excellent thread and im following it, just a couple of points on the application of:
1) Penetrant methods of inspection
2) Magnetic Particle Inspection.

1) Penetrant methods are only as good as the pre cleaning carried out. The method relies on the penetrant (Dye) making its way via a capilary action into small fisures (cracks), these cracks have to be empty ie: no oil/water or any other contaminant in the cracks in order for the penetrant to get in. So time spent de-greasing and cleaning prior to the application of the penetrant is time well spent.
Next: Soak time is important and Guy is spot on with the recomended 1hr soak.
Next come's the removal of the excess penetrant, carried out with clean dry lint free cloths, the obvious aim here is to remove the excess penetrant leaving that penetrant in the cracks to be drawn out later, it is important at this stage that you do not flood the surface with cleaner, simply spray some onto a cloth and wipe the excess away carefully.
The final stage: When applying the developer a light even coat should be applied and view the surface under good bright light, daylight if you can get it, continue to view for 1 hour, it takes an hour to get in to the crack it may take an hour to come out.

2) MPI (Magnetic Particle Inspection)
The best method of finding cracks in magnetic materials, far better than Penetrants, however for the likes of Crank shafts which are complicated shapes specialised equipment utilising bars and coils is required, however if you know what your doing results can be achieved using a welding set and some cables.
Basicaly the part is magnetised to a level where it has a suitably strong magnetic field within it, magnetic particles are applied to the surface and any Flux leakage (magnetic lines of force that due to cracks etc will have to for reasons of permiability and various properties of magnetic lines of force, travel across the crack in the air) attracts the magnetic particles that would be added at this stage, machined items should be tested using flourescent particles under UVA light.
Magnetic fields are directional so tests have to be carried out in at least 2 directions accross the component being examined.
Following inspection and as Guy has said demagnetisation is a must and again although specilaist equipment exists demagnetisation can be achieved using welding sets and cables, basic premis is to expose the component to a reducing and reversing magnetic field.
Let me however dispel a misconception, the magnetic particles used are NOT iron filings, particles used are made up of iron oxides either in their natural state (Black) or coated when used for Fluorescent inspections.
If any one has any questions on X-ray, Ultrasonic, Magnetic, Penetrant or any other methods of inspection please do not hesitate to conatc me, i used to lecture on the subjects.
Regards
Steve
Alan
Posts: 25
Joined: May 14th, 2007, 1:50 pm
Location: Galway, Ireland (A)
Contact:

Re: DIY 2.0 TC engine step-by-step rebuild with GC

Post by Alan »

Hi Guy.
I have the crankshaft, flywheel, rods and pistons ready to ship to your good self for balancing.
Are there any other tasks you would like me to tackle next?
Alan.
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