Race Engine Forum UK

Well that was interesting Perry.

I changed back to colder plugs and widened the gap to almost 1mm.
I had to lean out the idle mixture screws and a fast spin around the block felt much better.

Maybe just the gap needs fiddling with as the spark is much stronger.

Hi Perry,

Just an update.
I increased the spark plug gap to 1.1mm and used BP8ES instead of B8ES.
Much smoother with the larger gap. Also a slight improvement with the projected type plug.

My boxer did not like the small stock gap (0.6mm) with the MSD.

Now it idles smooth as silk.

Regards

Chris

I am after a good system for my 1968 classic road going standard 124 sport AC 1438.
Having read this thread MSD looks the bees knees.
I'm not after anything fancy or programmable, just a nice reliable electronic system to supplement the standard set up.

So whats' the best MSD system for me and where is best to purchase?

Bernie

Bernie

The best and most simple and effective system for you, is the MSD 6AL Digital (PN 6425)
It is more like the "basic" MSD, giving you all the power and smootheness you need, for a bunch of wires you have to connect and nothing more.
With the 6AL, unlike the 6A, you will benefit from a built in rev limiter, which you can set to whatever RPM you want, so easily.
It also is "cost effective". Best thing you can buy for a couple hundred pounds.
You will need the MSD Blaster 2 or 3 Coil too (PN 8203 or 8223).

Check them all on the MSD ignition website and decide which is best for your application.
Members from UK here (Like Mr Perry) can guide you to a UK dealer for sure.
Best of luck!

N

nabihelosta wrote:Bernie

The best and most simple and effective system for you, is the MSD 6AL Digital (PN 6425)
It is more like the "basic" MSD, giving you all the power and smootheness you need, for a bunch of wires you have to connect and nothing more.
With the 6AL, unlike the 6A, you will benefit from a built in rev limiter, which you can set to whatever RPM you want, so easily.
It also is "cost effective". Best thing you can buy for a couple hundred pounds.
You will need the MSD Blaster 2 or 3 Coil too (PN 8203 or 8223).

Check them all on the MSD ignition website and decide which is best for your application.
Members from UK here (Like Mr Perry) can guide you to a UK dealer for sure.
Best of luck!

N

Yep I agree.
Just be careful not to buy the SS blaster coil. Mine burnt out after 200 miles. I believe the standard oil filled MSD coil will be much better.
My 6A is running fine on an old Bosch standard coil for now but not sure what effect the 6A will have on that in the long term.

Bernie,

from the bhp mouth; just the basic 6AL will do you fine. Stick to your standard coil. Dont bother with uprating the coil unless you have uprated the engine or put chunky 8.5mm leads on the car. The MSD fires the coil in reverse and the charge is kept in the MSD not the coil, so your standard coil will be fine forever.

Perry

a very nice thread this one, well done all!

G

Guy Croft wrote:a very nice thread this one, well done all!

G

Thanks Guy. Nice of you to comment.


One thing I did observe with my MSD set up was that I heard a fast clicking noise from the distributor cap almost like spark scatter but without any symptoms.

When I changed the plugs from NGK without resistor (B8ES) to Bosch with resistor this noise disappeared. Maybe less voltage is going through the wires due to the resistor? Not sure.

Blimey, the internet never ceases' to amaze me

Help from all over the world

Nabih from Lebanon
Perry from London
Brit01 from Uruguay

Thank you guys, MSD 6AL it is

And a thanks to Guy for the use of his forum

Bernie

No need pal, that's what this forum is for! Guy set this rule long time ago: If you expect to get others help on your issues, give them yours on theirs.

Now to Mr Perry..
I have had thoughts about that MSD 6AL-2 Programmable. Have you checked on it yet? As I am a FI standalone tuner, it will be like a dream coming true if I can get to tune the ignition curve on my old Fiat, using the tips and tricks I know from more modern cars! Ever heard of someone who tried it? You can check the whole description on the MSD website.

Regards

N

thank you

Just noticed they do a cheaper non rev limiter version, the 6A

I'll not be over revving it on the road so that's what I'll go for.

bernie wrote:thank you

Just noticed they do a cheaper non rev limiter version, the 6A

I'll not be over revving it on the road so that's what I'll go for.

I have the 6A. You could always fit a rotor with a limiter. The ones with the little spring inside. I had one that cut out at 6300 rpm.

Bernie,

The soft touch rev-limiter does not harm the engine. It misses a spark on alternate cylinders on different strokes. Thus not leaving fuel in the chambers. You can set it to say 7,000rpm and sit there all day with your foot on the floor and it will stay as smooth as it were running. A rotor arm with a spring cuts out the spark in then cuts in again putting some serious aggravation on your rotating assembly as well as leaving fuel in the chambers......leading to bore wash and ultimately failure of a bearing because you stuffed the quality of your oil becuase you put a rotor arm with a spring cut out.

I've had an engine rebuild on a 750bhp small block because the owner never bothered to change a £6 rotor arm in 2 years. £11,000 later because he threw a rod (luckily an alloy drag race C&A rod, not steel) because it spun a bearing, because the oil had fuel in it, because the rotor arm was mis-firing between two cylinders because it had cracked and was not sitting propely and the unburnt fuel washed down the bores into the oil. OK, its a race engine with a lot of power, but take that back a few levels to what your trying to save on the price difference between a 6A and a 6AL.........................

Perry

n2oxide wrote:Bernie,

The soft touch rev-limiter does not harm the engine. It misses a spark on alternate cylinders on different strokes. Thus not leaving fuel in the chambers. You can set it to say 7,000rpm and sit there all day with your foot on the floor and it will stay as smooth as it were running. A rotor arm with a spring cuts out the spark in then cuts in again putting some serious aggravation on your rotating assembly as well as leaving fuel in the chambers......leading to bore wash and ultimately failure of a bearing because you stuffed the quality of your oil becuase you put a rotor arm with a spring cut out.

I've had an engine rebuild on a 750bhp small block because the owner never bothered to change a £6 rotor arm in 2 years. £11,000 later because he threw a rod (luckily an alloy drag race C&A rod, not steel) because it spun a bearing, because the oil had fuel in it, because the rotor arm was mis-firing between two cylinders because it had cracked and was not sitting propely and the unburnt fuel washed down the bores into the oil. OK, its a race engine with a lot of power, but take that back a few levels to what your trying to save on the price difference between a 6A and a 6AL.........................

Perry

That'll be the fly in the ointment, Perry.

Another decision!

And to my friend in Lebanon.......

I have used the programmables but NOT to adjust the ignition curves; although it can be done.
What I have used them for is only in racing when at high rpm the engine becomes less volumetrically efficient SO I back off the timing.
Also I do this differently for each gear, depending on the ratio.
For example; SBC running through a Lenco with a tall first, having around 38 degrees advance from 2,000rpm, I drop that around 6 degrees after 6,500rpm
and then 2nd gear from 4,000rpm, I drop that 5 degrees after 7,000rpm.
This is primarily to stop detonation.

Todays lesson..........at higher rpm, the chambers suck in less air. Most people assume it sucks in more.

Perry