Piston arrow direction

[Guy Croft]

There is no problem with naming the rings at all.

The top ring is plain section not RD.

Most of I needed to say about Flexhone grades and ring types has been covered already either here or in Readers' Cars.

G

[Brit01]

OK thanks GC.

I purchased Goetze rings. Best ones available here in Uruguay. Not many choices here really but at least this is apparently a good make.

[Guy Croft]

NOTHING wrong with Goetze rings!

G

[Brit01]

Just to confirm as I read in one of your other replies that a 400 mile bedding in period is good before changing the oil.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

I think I will also remove the sump after the break in period and check for signs of metal fragments for peace of mind, while giving is a good clean also, before putting in the new oil.

[Guy Croft]

If I was bedding-in in the car with road miles yes though that is not by way of saying it will need that much, the fastest I ever bedded-in a GC engine was a 16v Tipo many years ago and that was 20 minutes and I used a Snap-On leak-down gauge as a test for good cylinder seal. We just drove it round and round the block, faster and faster as it happens... That engine never smoked from 1st start and raced for years and years and got a severe thrashing the next day by Gerard Sauer for a Car & Car Conversions dyno and track feature.

However it is wise to take it 'steady' and use a longer period to prove-out the whole engine installation - cooling system etc.
Change the filter with the oil.

I've mentioned post-hone cleaning. To emphasise once again, you MUST clean the bores with detergent and hot water most thoroughly or the entrained carborundun will tear the new rings to pieces. Moreover never be tempted to use any solvent for this (though you can after washing) because you will drive the particles deeper into the cast-iron. Imagine cast iron (used for engines anyway) as being 'porous' because in effect it is because of the high graphite content - the stuff that gives it the necessary oil retention.

G

[Brit01]

Good advice as always GC.

To emphasise once again, you MUST clean the bores with detergent and hot water most thoroughly or the entrained carborundun will tear the new rings to pieces

I have a toilet brush for this, I can attach it to the drill and give it a good spin around. Clean it out thoroughly as you state.

The same principal goes for cleaning the new camshafts I assume as they are cast iron. Hot water and detergent, then the oil intended for use in the engine, plus the paste on the lobes and faces.


Regards

[Guy Croft]

From one of my 'How To' data sheets:

(Bedding-in) New cams:

You must use a good quality special cam lubricant (most cam manufacturers sell it) and pour it over the cam lobes immediately before cranking up oil pressure and 1st start (cam lube will typically be a zinc dithiophosphate compound).
Fill all the oil system accessories, filter, lines, cooler etc and crank up oil pressure on the starter with the plugs out with the cam box covers off and make sure oil is pumping into the valve train before starting the engine. It should prime up in 3 bursts of 7-10 sec cranking and in not more than 20 seconds overall. More than that and it's never going to get oil pressure.
With new cams it is imperative to run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 10 minutes to allow the cams to bed in - before allowing the engine to return to idle (750-850 rpm). Obviously timing and fuel system have to be very well set statically to permit this without overheating or stalling/flooding the engine.

The short story is that if you don't follow this regime you will wipe-out the cam lobes in minutes.

G

[Brit01]

You must use a good quality special cam lubricant (most cam manufacturers sell it) and pour it over the cam lobes immediately before cranking up oil pressure and 1st start (cam lube will typically be a zinc dithiophosphate compound).
Fill all the oil system accessories, filter, lines, cooler etc and crank up oil pressure on the starter with the plugs out with the cam box covers off and make sure oil is pumping into the valve train before starting the engine. It should prime up in 3 bursts of 7-10 sec cranking and in not more than 20 seconds overall. More than that and it's never going to get oil pressure.
With new cams it is imperative to run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 10 minutes to allow the cams to bed in - before allowing the engine to return to idle (750-850 rpm). Obviously timing and fuel system have to be very well set statically to permit this without overheating or stalling/flooding the engine.

Yes I read this before thanks. I have a special assembly lube/paste to put on the lobes and faces of tappets.
Unfortunately the cam covers on the Alfa are attached to the cylinder heads as 2 pieces with the hydraulic version. They do not separate, only with the cylinder heads off as the head bolts go through the cam supports. The mechanical tappet version yes.

I will turn the engine over with the starter motor with plugs removed and watch the oil pressure on the gauge and no more than your recommend time periods.

So just 10 minutes break in for the cams is ok? I've heard opinions between 4 and 20 mins but I'll follow your guidelines as this is your forum GC, and it's a good average between the variances I've read.

I'll need to fix the throttle cable manually set at 2000-2500 rpm as obviously I want to be able to monitor the engine for any leaks and also the pressure gauge inside during this 10 minute run. Unless I can get hold of a friend to assist which will make my life much easier.

[WhizzMan]

I've been using moly grease for cam assembly on these engines so far. Would you say that's a good alternative Guy? You can't get to them once you've put the heads back on the engine.

[Guy Croft]

Should be OK, yes,

G

[Brit01]

I used MOLYKOTE Engine assembly paste.

Seems to be somewhat resistant to wash off from oil which is what I want (bit more resistant would be better), don't want too much coming off when I prime the engine before starting it to 2500 rpm for the break in period.

Shame you can't access the tappets on the hydraulic version of the boxer, like the mechanical version with just a top that unscrews so easily.

AR what were you thinking?