Lada Rally Project

Non-engine, eg: aerodynamics, gearboxes, brakes, suspension
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Ladarallynz
Posts: 4
Joined: December 17th, 2006, 9:41 am
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
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Lada Rally Project

Post by Ladarallynz »

This is my first post, so I'd like to say hello from New Zealand.

I have recently purchased a 1978 Lada 1500 model 2106 with the twin headlights, which was at the time similar to a Fiat 125, which I intend on using for classic rallying.

It is very good condition, 100km on the clock, no rust.

Currently it is sitting, stripped out, almost ready for the rollcage etc.

My future plan is to fit a 1600 Fiat TC into her, LSD and 5spd box.

But at this stage we are beginning to think about handling first, so if anybody has built a Lada rally or race before and found a good suspension set up, any information is gratefully appreciated.

Merry Xmas and a Happy and safe New Year
Scotty
Cousin Cleotis
Posts: 10
Joined: July 17th, 2006, 6:05 pm
Location: Midlands, UK
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Post by Cousin Cleotis »

I run a lada 1500 estate, sinlge round headlight modle, as my daily car and the odd track day.

i will try to dig out all the information i have collected from a few people that rallied them in the 80's and 90's. Any information you find about Riva's will also be applicable.

This is what i remember off the top of my head for a forest set up.

Front
Toe in 3mm
Camber -1.5 degrees
Castor 4.5 degrees
Standard ride height
400lb springs
Standard anti roll bar

Rear
20mm lower
200lb springs
Straps to limit axle droop, unsure on dimensions.
Relocate shocks vertically

Rear suspension links can snap where the bush tube is welded in, strengthen these or even better make some new ones with rose joints.

Convert wheel bolts to studs, the thread will pull out of the hub before the bolt is damaged.

Paul
1969race125
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Joined: July 27th, 2006, 5:42 am
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Post by 1969race125 »

Hi Scotty,

Although the lada looks a little 125-ish because of the square headlights, it was in fact based on the slightly smaller 124 saloon.

If you are transplanting engine gearbox and diff, you might consider basing the suspension on Fiat too.

thank you
Andrew
Ladarallynz
Posts: 4
Joined: December 17th, 2006, 9:41 am
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
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Post by Ladarallynz »

Hey thank you for that, yes those specs are the kind of stuff we are looking for so thanks alot.
We are on quite a tight budget to, thats our main restriction, but what ever helps us to have some fun.

Please keep the stuff coming in, this is my first project car, although i have been co-driving for a year in a 68 mk.1 escort with a rover V8, so got a bit of rally experience.

thank you
Scotty
dp
Posts: 28
Joined: September 11th, 2006, 9:07 pm
Location: London
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Post by dp »

This link might have some useful information:
http://www.beardmorebros.co.uk/website%20pages/lada.htm
alexfl82
Posts: 29
Joined: October 6th, 2006, 5:47 am
Location: Vigo (Espa’‚±a)
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Post by alexfl82 »

The linkage of the rear axle is like Escort Gr.2.

‚¿The car changes to better like Escort?, my car drifts no much longer with original linkage rear axle.

‚¿This modification is better than Abarth independent axle?




(Sorry for my english)
sumplug
Posts: 234
Joined: June 25th, 2006, 10:25 am
Location: Banned 4th Oct 07 by GC
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Post by sumplug »

Abarth Independent Suspension was the best solution, and this is why Fiat/Seat ran it on their Rally cars. Having the rear wheels independent of each other will give you much more control at the back end.

Andy.
SteveNZ

Post by SteveNZ »

Cousin Cleotis wrote:I
Front
Toe in 3mm
Camber -1.5 degrees
Castor 4.5 degrees
Standard ride height
400lb springs
Standard anti roll bar

Rear
Paul
Thats a lot of castor, how heavy is the steering?
Ladarallynz
Posts: 4
Joined: December 17th, 2006, 9:41 am
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Contact:

Hmm

Post by Ladarallynz »

The steerings quite heavy, and wont help having the 10in steering wheel on aye.
but once its on gravel and moving quick itl be ok.

Just an Update, we have started on panel and paint, the interior has been stripped of all tar and deadning, and has been seam welded. looks great.

Also found a twin choke weber down draught to go on for the mean time.

Please keep the suggestions coming, thank you

Scott
Scotty
TR-Spider
Posts: 132
Joined: June 23rd, 2006, 8:37 am
Location: Rekingen / Switzerland
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Post by TR-Spider »

Sounds good!
Can we get some photos, please.

Thomas
Ladarallynz
Posts: 4
Joined: December 17th, 2006, 9:41 am
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Contact:

Progress

Post by Ladarallynz »

Hi all, havnt posted for a while, heres the progress so far:

Rollcage fitted, bogged, sanded, interior painted, seats and belts purchased, killswitch done, battery in boot, bonnet pins and boot latches done, clutch slave fixed, dash refitted, 10'' wheel and boss fitted. Not far off painting and then just paperwork.

Please keep the ideas coming

Pics to come
Scotty
djaychela
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Joined: March 1st, 2007, 4:18 pm
Location: Bournemouth, England
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Post by djaychela »

Hi

If you join the British Rally forum and speak to someone called Martin Shaw (username mart shaw) - he was the man for lada rally cars here, and on the old forum I'm sure he posted a list of settings, info, etc.

Hope posting a suggestion for another forum isn't considered wrong, Guy....

Darren
FIAT125T
Posts: 23
Joined: July 12th, 2006, 4:45 am
Location: New Zealand
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NOT 1608 :)

Post by FIAT125T »

Howdy, just a word of caution. The parts for the 1608cc are getting hard to find and you would be better off running any engine with the 84mm bore. You will be able to find more piston options and competition head gaskets. The 1756 is easy to come by in NZ and the 1995 can be found. Both will give better torque as well which is important for rallying.
thank you
Paul
Keeper of a 125T the flyin' New Zealander Fiat.
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