Race Engine Forum UK

Hi,

you are absolutely right, the catalyst can not work properly at this point. Why I put it there? Put the catalyst as far as possible in the exhaust system absorbs less power. To my knowledge there is not really a specific location by Regulation to position the catalyst.

The policy of the catalysts on race cars is still a mystery to me.

Regards

Daniel

I am also amazed by these regulations, which are the same for the "Youngtimer" '76-'90 class.
On the other hand, when watching these cars at races I always see the catalysts glow orange, which means they are pretty much at working temperature.
Normally one does not much "cold starting" in a race car (which is why they are placed close to the engine at road cars).
Additionally it is much easier to exchange such a catalyst at the exit, so I think we can live with that.

Thomas

Hi,

Let me introduce the work done on weekend.

Thanks for your kind comments Daniel, I am very pleased this site is showcasing your work. I admire the care you have taken to produce exceptional photographs from which much can be learned and the elegant text that accompanies it all, esp given that English is not your native language.

One thing - at a glance - that bothers me a bit is the aval space for a ducted intake system - see below - and you must give consideration to that. You certainly musn't induct at rad exit air temp. Shorter trumpets and radiator shifted forward an inch or so will help. You need 1" between the rampipes and any surrounding airbox architecture.

G

Hi Guy,

thank you for your comments.

I do not intend to drive with open pipe rams. I really respect what you have already noted several times, about it, to other members, airbox is also part of the project.
I am always glad to hear your opinion.

Regards

Daniel

Hi,
some update, airbox, door panel and larger brake disc with twin piston caliper.


Two variants in terms of air intake.
The first variant is to place the air filter directly on the front of the box.
The second is to place a kind of extension to avoid taking heat from the radiator.
Let's say that the alternative number two is probably the best, the problem is how much the engine is swung during acceleration and braking? The junctions between box and extension cord are door seals which are very flexible.

Great update.

Are you using solid / very stiff engine mounts as that airbox is very close to the front panel - or is it screwed to the front panel?
May cause problems as you say when the engine moves.

Perhaps you can consider removing the front panel completely and making a whole new arrangement from tubular steel - a spaceframe type arrangement
that will give you more strength and space as you can make it "bolt on" if you wish and also attach mounting points where required - if you wanted to you could remove the inner wings and spaceframe the whole front end - if you wanted to that is and if regs allow. . . .

Can you tell me more about / post a photo of the front wishbone / suspension arrangement - it looks great.

Thanks

Hi Daniel!


Extremely nice project You have going there!

I especially like the airbox arrangement - lovely.

I am following Your thread closely when I have time.

Good luck to You - nice to see someone using the 130 TC for what it was intended:-)


Best regards

Remi Lovhoiden

mitch strada wrote:Great update.

Are you using solid / very stiff engine mounts as that airbox is very close to the front panel - or is it screwed to the front panel?
May cause problems as you say when the engine moves.

Perhaps you can consider removing the front panel completely and making a whole new arrangement from tubular steel - a spaceframe type arrangement
that will give you more strength and space as you can make it "bolt on" if you wish and also attach mounting points where required - if you wanted to you could remove the inner wings and spaceframe the whole front end - if you wanted to that is and if regs allow. . . .

Can you tell me more about / post a photo of the front wishbone / suspension arrangement - it looks great.

Thanks

Hi Mitch,
yes of course the engine mount is very stiff, perhaps even too much, as you can see from the pictures below.

A tubular construction of the front panel, so maybe next time, a lot of work to do this.
The air box is screwed to the TB's, the extension is screwed to the front panel. I build the air box as large as possible to get an inch of freedom around the ram pipes as Guy preconise.

A small update at the front brakes:
-Brake hose done
-Invert the bleed screw
-bleed the brake system

The front wishbone is made ​​of steel tube and uniball joint.
The rear is also on uniball, stock arms.

Abarthnorway - Remi L wrote:Hi Daniel!


Extremely nice project You have going there!

I especially like the airbox arrangement - lovely.

I am following Your thread closely when I have time.

Good luck to You - nice to see someone using the 130 TC for what it was intended:-)


Best regards

Remi Lovhoiden

Hi Remi,

thank you very much.

Regards

Daniel

Thanks for the photos very nice work indeed.

I can t see the front antiroll bar - have you removed it?

Also are you converting it to hydraulic clutch to replace the cable?

Thanks

Possibly insufficient engagement into the nylon here?

Whether yours is OK or not I post this for general info because frequently I see cases where there is not enough penetration to prevent the nut working loose under constant vibration/applied load. Most male fasteners have a region of 45 deg taper at their end which must be allowed for - the nylon must fully engage on full-form threads.

G

Guy Croft wrote:Possibly insufficient engagement into the nylon here?

Whether yours is OK or not I post this for general info because frequently I see cases where there is not enough penetration to prevent the nut working loose under constant vibration/applied load. Most male fasteners have a region of 45 deg taper at their end which must be allowed for - the nylon must fully engage on full-form threads.

G

Guy, you're absolutely right I have unscrew the nut. Indeed, the nylon is just half marked, you do not miss anything, I love your meticulousness. Thank you for these precisions.

Regards

Daniel

mitch strada wrote:Thanks for the photos very nice work indeed.

I can t see the front antiroll bar - have you removed it?

Also are you converting it to hydraulic clutch to replace the cable?

Thanks

Mitch,

i do not use any stabilizer bar for now. If I really need a stabilizer bar, then only on the rear axle.

Yes, i convert it to hydraulic clutch. The clutch diameter is 184 mm instead of 215mm stock.
I hope the clutch system survive. The bearing is based on an aluminum plate of 10mm.
Statice it disengages well.
Dynamically not tried yet.


Regards

Daniel

Thanks for the update, i look forward to your next report.