Harnesses

Non-engine, eg: aerodynamics, gearboxes, brakes, suspension
cantfindausername
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Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

I have recently purchased some Seats to go into my MR2 when I eventually get it back...

As such I am looking into getting some 4 point harnesses.

Being mid-engined there is a 3 skin firewall about 6-8" behind the seats. On this I intend to drill through and mount some stress plates on the engine side of the fire wall, to which some eye bolts will be attached, I also plan on removing the original seatbelt using the 2 floor mounted bolt holes for eye bolts for the lap straps.

I know pretty much what I need, but would like to hear from people about what you use, and what supplies you have used.

Thanks in advance,
Ant
Guy Croft
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Re: Harnesses

Post by Guy Croft »

Make me happy, Ant, buy Willans,

http://willansmotorsport.com/index.php/History.html

GC
cantfindausername
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Re: Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

Thanks for your input Guy. Always appreciated.

They are definately a potential. I'd initally been looking at a set of SABELT harnesses as they look more "meaty" around the buckle connections compared to others on the market. Any thoughts on these? Good or bad.

Ant
Walezy
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Re: Harnesses

Post by Walezy »

I used to have Sabelts in my cars but now i use Schroth (Sparco) seatbelts as the buckle is different to others. It does not have any "lever", you just need to turn the buckle to open it. This makes it in my opinion safer than standard seatbelts with that "lever" as you will not open it when making quick and hard turns(this can happen if your steering wheel is close to your chest as some drivers prefer it this way).

http://english.schroth.com/popups/pictu ... 50/5/2.jpg
Book#378
cantfindausername
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Re: Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

Good call. I know a lot of the MR2 Championship drivers use Schroth belts. I didn't know they were Sparco made though.
Walezy
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Re: Harnesses

Post by Walezy »

Schroth makes them, Sparco just puts their name and logo on it. You can buy it as Sparco or directly from Schroth. The seatbelts work excellent and the shoulder belts do not require retightening on long stages like my previous sabelts did.
Book#378
cantfindausername
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Re: Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

Oh right, sorry I thought it was the other way round. I had also considered Sparco as the rest of my interior is Sparco. However, I am not fussed either way. Its feedback like the "re-tightening in long stages" that makes a difference to decisions.

Thanks,
Ant
MartinB
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Re: Harnesses

Post by MartinB »

I would go for a 6 point harness rather than a 4 point. They are a bit more hassle to use but will stop you submarining under the harness in the event of a heavy head on impact and hold you much more securely in the seat.

I have used both 4 point and 6 point harnesses over the years, and had a fairly substantial front impact when I used the 4 point harness which is why I then went for the 6 point and have done ever since.

I would also recommend the 3" straps (the 2" ones left bruises from the impact with the 4 point).

I have always used Willans harnesess and have found them to be excellent.

Regards

Martin
cantfindausername
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Re: Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

The seats don't have the required slots for 6 points. However, this is something that I will upgrade to in time. My initial setup will just be for 4 points. I had also heard that the lower straps are to stop the buckle riding up, not to stop you submarining. The seating position in the MR2 is quite upright. I've not heard of submarining being an issue with those that race them. 6 point is the next stage for me, however Willans are winning the popularity race at the moment.
Guy Croft
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Re: Harnesses

Post by Guy Croft »

Proper placement of the mouting points is critical, esp the over shoulder-straps. Phil will know all this BTW if he is installing them..

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cantfindausername
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Re: Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

He's not installing them at the moment unless I can do it when I collect the car - hopefully not much longer to wait!

I've just been reading through the Willans installation instructions. I think I'll be installing 4 new mounting points, 2 in the floor and 2 in the firewall, both using eye bolts and spreader plates. The floor ones I was initially thinking of using the stock seat belt mounting point, but looking at the installation picture, I think that will be too "behind" the driver/passengers seating position. However, all of this is guess work until I get the car back.
cantfindausername
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Re: Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

Have done some more looking around on this and it appears that all cars, regardless of make/model use a standard 7/16 UNF thread for seat belt fixings.

So, I have priced up a set of Willans 4pt (3" lap and shoulder) harnesses, eye bolts for the stock floor points, and eye bolts and stress plates for the rear firewall, and according to my math, with my club discount it comes in at a very reasonable price.


Ant
smckeown
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Re: Harnesses

Post by smckeown »

I wouldn't feel safe without 5/6 point. I don't bother using the lapbelt on the road, but it's a shame your seats don't support them.

If it were me i'd sell the existing seats and get some that will support more points (are you they don't, mine are very deceptive).

You only live once!

Sean
205 8v Track car
cantfindausername
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Re: Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

I'm pretty sure they dont. They're Sparco Speed seats. The idea for the time being is to kit it out for a few trackdays, then if I can afford to do more, then I'll upgrade and sell on what I currently have to put towards some new seats that support 5/6 pt.
cantfindausername
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Re: Harnesses

Post by cantfindausername »

I've just been looking further into the mounting of the harnesses, and 1 problem with the MR2 is that the inner mounting point (where the stock seatbelt clip is located) is actually a male thread. So I need an eye nut on this part.

I've hunted high and low for a 7/16" UNF eye nut, but cannot find one. So my idea is to take an M8 eye nut and redrill/tap to the correct size. Or get an M10 eye bolt, remove the stud section and then drill & tap to the correct size.

Do you think this is a viable option?

Thanks,
Ant
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